2010 September 15
Runway Reviews: Dennis Basso, Luca Luca, Badgley Mischka, Elie Tahari
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(NEW YORK) DENNIS BASSO
Always one for surprises, Dennis Basso delivered a sea of looks for his Spring 2011 collection that were warm-weather ready but adorned with sable and chinchilla, still feeling cool and airy as opposed to bundled up. Basso’s color palette was inspired by the ocean and sky in pretty ice blues, pinks, champagnes and silver-grays. Lace, taffeta and alligator in soft, romantic colors came in kicky, shorter lengths and cut-out detailing, and wide open backs provided extra oomph and sex appeal. Basso noted, “The whole inspiration was the Mediterranean with the sunset, the sea, the dawn, all of those colors with breezy evenings and starlet skies. Just a glamorous evening out on the town.”
Inspired by a the triangular shapes of the Sydney Opera House after a cruise to Australia last fall, Luca Luca designer Raul Melgoza set about softening the sharp shape to fit his sweet, accessible aesthetic. The geometry showed up in cutouts, faggoting stitch details, and layers of crepe and chiffon that were light enough to flutter behind the models as they walked. Chiffon frocks in pale pink and gray prints are perfect summer brunch fare, while skirt suits in silk linen jacquard will take ladies who lunch from office to cocktails. In all, a pretty, breezy, demure collection; women of all ages will find something to love.
Seeing that their customer base shops high and low, for Spring 2011 Badgley Mischka decided to mix their signature Couture collection of highly embellished gowns alongside their Collection, and younger contemporary line, Mark & James. Inspired by the film White Mischief, a romance set in Nairobi in the '40s about decadent British expats escaping the realities of war, both collections captured the glamour and fragility of the young heroines of that era. Highlights from the Couture collection were statuesque column dresses in an array of sorbet shades adorned by macramé and bugle beads. The Collection was boudoir-styled, with charmeuse slip dresses with lace trim, and Mark & James featured romantic chiffon dresses and tops with flirty and flouncy bell sleeves paired with shorts and mini skirts. The result? A seamless show of 43 looks that can be worn from the red carpet to the streets.
Elie Tahari knows his customer and always delivers. Spring 2011 proved his secret to success with a collection of consistently wearable and classic contemporary sportswear with modern silhouettes and separates—what real women and men want to wear. For the women’s collection, he worked with a palette of khaki, gold, black and white, turning out tailored jackets and trenchs, high-waisted cotton poplin flare pants, gold lurex halter tops, hooded knitwear, and fitted napa leather cropped jackets. For men, the palette was neutral greys and khakis with skinny pant silhouettes, and tailored leather jackets and outerwear.