2010 September 12
Runway Reviews: Alexander Wang, Prabal Gurung, Ohne Titel
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(NEW YORK) ALEXANDER WANG
Hard to miss that hair! White clay painted on in strips on the crown, then fanning out to sharp duck tails sets the tone for blunt looks (Let's hope this one doesn't catch on the way those side braids did). The show got better as it continued, starting with a montage of white on white looks that were baggy harem pants and boxy cropped vests with slashes of metallic gold haphazardly placed on the back. With color accompanied more cuts: sea foam green dresses with exposed side paneling and lemony green knits with long shawl collars. Alexander knows how to muss everything up the perfect amount, like knits with one sleeve short, the other just past the elbow. Who needs matching sleeve length? His legions of rabid fans certainly don't.
For his spring outing, Prabal Gurung resorted to his core strength: impeccably detailed, gorgeous dresses that any sane woman would crave. He divided his gems into edited section: bold graphics, tempting sands, coral silks, embroidered show stoppers, and noir burnt paillette numbers. Each one of his looks was immaculately detailed, perfectly energized, and infused with Gurung's signature joyful feminine twists. "This is really just a celebration of where I'm from," said the designer. "It's a tribute to a woman who's intellectual and exhibits her sexuality in the most beautiful and confident way."
Alexa Adams and Flora Gill drew on the work of Japanese woodblock artist Utagawa Kuniyoshi for Ohne Titel’s Spring 2011 collection. Linear shapes and hard lines felt geometric, and the silhouettes were both bodycon and voluminous. Slick, sleek neoprene bodysuits looked ready for scuba diving, while flouncy pleated skirts felt youthful and girly. White, navy and cobalt comprised the color palette, and shots of ultra bright yellow on the fluorescent tube necklaces (a collab with artist Tauba Auerbach) added punchy energy.