2010 September 12

Runway Reviews: Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti, Adam, Cynthia Rowley, Yoana Baraschi

Philosophy Di Alberta Spring 2011 Philosophy Di Alberta Spring 2011
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(NEW YORK) PHILOSPHY DI ALBERTA FERRETTI
Alberta Ferretti looked to the East for her Spring 2011 Philosophy show. In silhouettes reminiscent of ’60 pool party—think micro-mini rompers, flippy halter frocks, and crop top-hot pant combos that could pass for retro swimwear—Ferretti hit every Asian-inspired fashion trick in the book: mandarin collars, frog closures, kimono sleeves, and even dragon embroidery on bright satins. Prints were bright and, yes, Asian in theme, featuring a collage of fish scales, zebra stripes, and a cute pop-ish face print. The theme was a bit redundant after a while, but who could be mad at such a colorful, fun little lineup?

ADAM
Color was more abundant here than most collections. Black leather miniskirts with softer edges were present, but so were lavender print nighty dresses. Peach and red high waisted bellbottom pants got a dose of sex-appeal with subtle corset lacing in the back. Top picks? A gray sweatshirt of the extra-soft variety with horizontal crystal stripes, and a full-skirted red leather dress.

CYNTHIA ROWLEY
Cynthia Rowley has always had close ties with the art world, and its influence shined through this intellectual collection of dresses, skirts, and chemise tops embellished with a kaleidoscope of colorful op art cabochons, circular laser perforations, and color blocking. She channeled Twiggy’s cool Carnaby street style with structured shift dresses and tailored silk duponi pants that were topped off with collarless car coats. Hardly a print in sight, Rowley's Spring 2011 collection showed solid colors in neutrals and khaki which were like blank canvases, with subtle surprises like peek-a-boo cutouts to reveal a peephole of skin accessorized with large Bakelite bar necklaces. A master of seeing the big picture, her remarkable eye for detail looks very different up close than from far away. True to her passion for art, it was only befitting that she held her celebratory luncheon and collaboration with Band-Aid, where now even boo-boos can be fashionable, in the garden of the Cooper Hewitt Museum.

YOANNA BARASCHI

In a word, feminine. Mad Men seems to be taking over the fashion world (or is it the other way around?)—polka dots on navy waist-cinching dresses with wide lapels, and kitschy looking vintage prints on wrap dresses with ribbon belts. Costume jewelry, clip on earrings and sparkly necklaces keep it glamorous and not too housewifey. Micro white sequin shorts are anything but the housewife and the same ethereal bird print that was on a prim dress is translated to a slouchy pair of fuss-free knee length shorts.