2010 September 11
Runway Reviews: Costello Tagliapietra, Doo.Ri, Frank Tell
(NEW YORK) DOO.RI
True to form, Doo-Ri Chung presented clean, feminine pieces with her signature draping effect. White jacquard frocks, straight leg crepe pants and chiffon blouses felt utterly immaculate in hues of cream, ivory, almond and taupe. Fresh from the first look to the last, icy blue hints of color were peppered throughout the collection, and airy, flowing pieces were paired with more body con tops and skirts. Shorter lengths and light blue silk tap shorts provided a fun, kicky vibe and open backs added a dash of sex appeal.
Costello Tagliapietra know how to drape a dress. Flattering, classic, easy—these shows don’t knock you over the head with innovation (although they did collborate with high-tech eco-friendly dyeing system AirDye again), though they do present a way of dressing that’s increasingly appealing as living in denim becomes the norm. Why shouldn’t you wear a dress to work every day? When they come in a palette of pretty neutrals or abstract “storm” prints, when they’re practical enough to include pockets but beautiful enough to take you to a cocktail party, when they have perfectly figure-flattering draping but are still body-grazing enough to be sexy…Let’s just say your wardrobe could do with one. Or five.
Frank Tell took inspiration entirely from the Spanish moss of the "Living Wall” at the Quai Branley Museum in Paris after visiting this summer, and the designer, dedicated to authenticity, actually used natural grasses, bamboo, and paper to reinterpret the moss and ivy. Not to worry: lest you be wary about dressing up like a wall of moss, Tell’s collection was incredibly clean and streamlined, with the exception of several webby knits that evoked the vegetation in a lovely, wearable, not-too-literal way. Sleek trousers, cropped and with a slight flare, made up modern pantsuits when paired with croc-embossed lambskin blazers, and draped georgette dresses with pleated hems were perfectly feminine.