2010 September 10

Runway Reviews: Jen Kao, Mandy Coon, Kimberly Ovitz

Jen Kao Spring 2011 Jen Kao Spring 2011
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Desert princes searching for their zombie brides? It was certainly a high-concept show at Jen Kao, complete with a runway covered in sand art depictions of skeletons. Fortunately for Kao, her collection itself, all pale and bohemian and macrame’d, didn’t trip up on the references. Her signature webby knit dresses were less body-con than in seasons past, and handkerchief hems and plenty of gauzy layers kept the feeling relaxed and a bit undone for Spring. Kao has worked with buzzy jeweler Eddie Borgo in the past (Borgo’s boyfriend Keegan Singh still styles the collection), but this season Kao launched her own chunky silver jewelry, as well as an impressive silver waist corset that indicated that her future in jewelry might be just as successful as ready-to-wear.

Buzzy newcomer Mandy Coon was inspired by the jellyfish in Tulum (“silent ghosts of the sea,” according to her show notes) for her Spring 2011 collection, as well as black and white photography of the aforementioned creatures by Camille Solyagua. Streamlined shapes floated into layers of skirts with frayed hems and unfinished edges, giving the collection a clean but natural feel with a slightly punky edge. In black, white, bright orange, and a colorful abstract print, Coon went bold for spring, though tweaked basics like a sheer-sleeved white blazer and black trousers with a diagonal row of buttons will be an easy sell to the hips .com/javascripts/tiny_mce/themes/advanced/langs/en.js?1284077740" type="text/javascript"> ters that packed her Milk Studios presentation.

Kimberly Ovitz stuck with her usual black and white palette for Spring 2011, but graphic lines and plenty of texture kept the collection from being one (er, two)-note. Tonal panels on streamlined, body-con dresses, skinny white pants that were seamed for a graphic touch, and plenty of her well-loved knits will give Ovitz’s fans of both coasts (the daughter of Hollywood mogul Mike Ovitz, Kimberly is based in Los Angeles) something to shop for. A tied-up trench coat in pale gray and button-up tunics with draped detailing rounded out a collection of perfectly slouchy tees and goth-toned pieces.