2008 September 7
Ruffian - New York Spring 2009
(NEW YORK) Brian Wolk and Claude Morais’ rebellious prep-schooler from fall has fallen in love with a musician and moved to California for spring: “It’s still our same girl, but she’s a runaway now,” Wolk explained. “She still has elements of tailoring, but it was mixed with softness.” Ruffian’s Spring 2009 collection showed a much more bohemian side of the Ruffian girl, from the crimped hair down to the fringed Louboutins. While the Cure song “Fire in Cairo” played (the collection’s theme: “It’s about forbidden love,” Morais explained), Caroline Trentini opened the show in a white peasant dress with full sleeves, a look that set the tone for the show. Though the pieces ranged from romantic ruffled blouses to super-sexy “Bardot” hot shorts and nylon jackets, the strong theme kept the collection cohesive.
Ruffian’s greatest strength is in its textiles: a paint-by numbers print was clever and quirky but still chic and wearable (quite a feat), and their April bouclé was their fall line’s great cassette tape bouclé (literally, with cassette tape woven into the fabric), reimagined in color. “We wanted to look into more of our hobbies and stuff that we love and try and translate it into our work,” Morais explained. “Braille” chiffon was another gorgeous fabric; purple with tiny gold dots, a tiered dress in the material was at once feminine and polished, but still fitting for the Ruffian runaway.