2007 September 9

Narciso Rodriguez - Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2008

Narciso Rodriguez Spring 2008 Narciso Rodriguez Spring 2008
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(NEW YORK) With his 10-year-anniversary collection, Rodriguez relaxed his signature stark, geometric silhouettes. The emphasis was less on seaming and more on amplified but still body-conscious proportions with lots of pleating and tucking. Narciso delicately incorporated Japonisme and ninja influences with obi-like waist details, kimono silks, collarless coats, and cropped peplum pants. The designer even allowed himself to use uncharacteristic embellishments, like on a striking orange dress embroidered with black flowers on a shoulder strap and hem which perfectly blend Narciso's signature reserved silhouettes and this collection's looser shapes in bright colors. It was interesting to see how the designer adjusted his sensibility to his recent creative and business collaborations, namely with Liz Claiborne, who now has a substantial stake in his company, and Sergio Rossi's Edmundo Castillo, who designed the show's copper oxfords. Classic and innovative, architectural and unrestricting, Rodriguez's collection showed that the designer can expand his artistic range and take his brand to the next level.