2012 February 16
Fall 2012: Proenza Schouler, Lyn Devon, Norma Kamali
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(NEW YORK) Proenza Schouler
Ho-hum doesn't belong in the Proenza Schouler handbook. Case in point: Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough's sartorial East-meets-West roundup for Fall with Proenza's trademark spin on karate dogis and traditional Samurai armor. Words like "protective" and "escape" buzzed around the 22nd Street runway space as a series of crisp cotton pique pairings opened the show with wide-leg pleat front trousers, collared shirting (accented with side buttons on one shoulder), and boxy jackets with a sharp, angular hemline. New wave karate kid at its best! Then came the troupe of Samari warriors in woven leather paillette skirts, drop-waist tangerine dresses, silk-quilted Varsity jackets splashed with Japanese birds, and voluminous crimson leather and wool coats—all earning the Proenza boys a black belt with the editorial set.
Move over, J.Crew. Lyn Devon is on a roll. Last season's urban picnic turned into this season's New York love story with a mélange of femme fifties silhouettes balanced with tomboyish charm in, say, lavender lovebird print ankle trousers juxtaposed with a mannish olive overcoat. Devon designed the lovey-dovey collection to the sounds of Jim Campilongo's "The Prettiest Girl in New York," and that's just what Devon's devotees will feel like in any number of shrunken angora sweaters, peplum bustiers, jewel-toned wool dresses, and high-waisted wrap-front pencil skirts.
Guests may have been expecting hungry and tired models feigning radiance at 8:30 a.m. for Norma Kamali’s presentation at Pier 59, but instead were greeted by cardboard cutouts, towering around eight feet in height, splayed in fun poses and plastered with cheery expressions, which the designer was calling her 'Glamazons.' Both OMO and the designer’s newest venture, a diffusion line called Kamali Kulture that retails for less than $100, were on offer. The new line includes suits, jersey dressing, and cute, fifties-inflected bikinis (thank goodness, since Norma is a swimwear denizen, after all!). The new line is in online pre-sell right now and will hit Amazon and Zappos next month. Why the expansion, Norma? “Women should feel good about buying clothes; they shouldn’t feel guilty. Women who have great style but no budget should have a place to go,” the tech saavy designer told The Daily. Now they do, Norma.