2012 February 16

Fall 2012: Calvin Klein Collection

Calvin Klein Fall 2012 Calvin Klein Fall 2012
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(NEW YORK) Calvin Klein Collection
The Occupy Wall Street-ers made a curious choice. Why call for a protest outside of Francisco Costa's show? Of all the New York designers, who consistently demonstrates more restraint, more studiousness, more of a desire to create buy-now, wear-forever fashion? Perhaps it was cancelled, as editors arriving at the 2 p.m. show were greeted with what appeared to be the usual assortment of street style photogs and curious tourists. But inside CK HQ, the all-white show space was swathed in noir. Franzi opened the show in a wool and mohair collarless coat, accompanied by a languid, static-y, reverberating drum beat that was eventually mixed with some Alice Coltrane-esque abstractions. At the house of Costa, there will be no Lana Del Ray. As the meditation on black continued, the message was clear: these are clothes to think about. The new-shape pant—pleated, full, and cropped—was rendered in a buttery black leather and paired with a sculptural wool jacket. Costa's fabric research, always impressive, paid off big-time, with a handful of divine shifts in the kind of substantial yet movement-conscious wool that Joseph Beuys would have admired. (The show notes describe it as "technical.") But despite the gravitas of Costa's first act, an injection of colors like "poppy, parchment, cerise," and "sienna" were applied to the same fabrics in contoured crewneck dresses and angular coats.  But it was the last three noir dresses, made of knotted silk embroidery and some sort of sparkle, that made the strongest statement about the new look of luxury. Opulent? Not a bit.