2012 February 15

Fall 2012: Rodarte, Dennis Basso, Vera Wang, Sachin + Babi

Rodarte Fall 2012 Rodarte Fall 2012
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(NEW YORK) Rodarte
In one corner: Maria Sharapova by Susie Bubble and Tavi. In another: Dakota Fanning next to George Lucas(!) across from Natalie Portman. Does it get any better? Such was the scene at Rodarte's jam-packed noon runway show yesterday, held up by Vogue Italia latecomer Franca Sozzani, who slipped in just as the lights dimmed. The great Australian landscape served as the central theme for the cinematic collection built off of a rust and azure blue color palette. "We've actually never been to Australia," admitted Kate and Laura Mulleavy backstage. "We've always wanted to go and hopefully this collection will get us there!" Out trotted the leggy mods in crop top-skirt combos, thirties-style to-the-knee frocks, alpaca cable-knit sweaters with high-waisted wool trousers, and hand-print gowns rounded out the lineup. The highlights: Tailored black and white shearling coats and Outback booties with sand-filled heels.

Dennis Basso
One of the highlights of NYFW for us is Basso's (always epic) show that never fails to deliver jaw dropping joy. His front row included devoted friends including Joan Rivers, Susan Lucci and Star Jones, and a slew of socials with pens in hand to take pre-order notes; this isn't a window shopping type of crowd at chez Basso, after all. He had us at hello! It ain't grunge, it ain't hispter, it's New York City glam at its finest hour. This season, Basso delivered a collection inspired by a "Mystery On The Orient Express." and did he ever take us on a ride this time. Set the scene for us, Basso! "This was when a woman traveled with a carry-on-case that wasn't filled with a week's worth of clothing, but rather only her cosmetics and jewelry for that trip," the designer explained. The evening gowns got the handwought treatment in Swarovski crystals and glass beads for night; trapeze dresses for cocktail hour, and cashmere for day. But we know you really want to know about the fur: Basso's latest included Russian Sable, broadtail, ermine, lynx, chinchilla, and fox, all lined with tissue weight cashmere. We could faint. And let's talk shoes! Ruthie Davis collaborated with Basso for the fifth season, with divine results. This designer knows what the Dennis Basso lady looks like, to the effect of kidskins and patents, with blush-tone outsoles and steely gossamer nudes and neutrals cast against rose gold hardware. The end result? Perfection. From top to shoe, another obsession-worthy, rich, and luxurious collection from Mr. Basso.

Vera Wang
 Wang may be universially revered for her bridal designs, but as yesterday's show evidenced, it's actually her ready-to-wear that rocks even more. The show opened with multiple looks in a soft tan color: a structured sleeveless coat with huge woolen collar to keep the elements out, plus sheer chiffon shirts. Biker babe chic? Oui oui! The knit biker shorts were layered under practically everything in the collection, like chiffon dresses, which made for a practical way to transition between night, day, and a motorcycle. Vera introduced color with Bermuda length wool shorts in cherry red:  more polished take on the biker chick. Black fur capes topped a few looks, lending enough warmth for a short walk between your townhouse and waiting car. An unexpected, jumbo black fur hood cropped up on one slim long sleeved dress. Who says you might not need that to quell a chilly office? The dressier looks took shape in sheer chiffon with a black and white pinwheel print, while the finale was a metallic knit racerback tunic with insanely heavy pewter beading and knitting that summed up the laid-back luxe aesthetic. Viva la Vera!

Sachin + Babi
For the designing couple's debut runway show at Cedar Lakes, nestled among art gallery row in the western fringes of Chelsea, the brand's signature feminine flaire got a little darker, and a little more enamored by leather. As such, the collection trotted out the gate with a punch, beginning with an embossed, flared leather skirt, and sheer knit top. Beyond a number of all-hide looks, there were softer takes on leather, too, like a strapless gown with leather bodice and pleated georgette skirt.  “We had fun with this collection.  We went to town with the leather but we made it ever so tailored to keep it relevant,” Babi explained to The Daily post-show. Sharp silhoettes in haute hides of red, black, green, and purple, it looks like they're doing exactly that.