2012 February 15
Fall 2012: Naeem Khan, Sophie Theallet, Narciso Rodriguez, Marc by Marc Jacobs
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(NEW YORK) Naeem Khan
Naeem Khan didn't have to travel far for the kickoff point to his high-octane Fall 2012 collection. "It started with the decadence and the dust of India, from moguls to the Maharajah," said Khan pre-show. Eastern influence peeked through on a taupe art deco silk faille shift, festooned with mirrored crystals, and overtly shined on more traditional garments like a black column gown with metallic embroidered paisleys. Geometric prints, sequins, beading, and ostrich feathers adorned plunging V-neck eveningwear and asymmetrically draped ballgowns, threading the glitzy glam collection together into one cohesive coterie of opulence. But one question still remains. What's the mysterious connection between Khan and front-rower Matt Damon? "We recently vacationed together in St. Barts and Barbuda," confessed Khan to The Daily. "We were on a boat together. He's a very normal guy!" Good to know about dear Good Will Hunting!
A fallen aristocrat in search of a little luxe in her life served as Sophie Theallet's current storyline of the season. What did our French heroine scrape up with her pocketful of gold coins? A whole new wardrobe (this is a fairytale, of course!) bursting at the seams with wallpaper print separates, vintage-y holiday party dresses atop turtlenecks, and flowing boho patterned gowns slit up to there. A red silk floor-sweeper with a burgundy sash belt gave the ultra-femme, and mostly demure, collection a welcome hint of spice in the sugary nice.
Clean lines, grown-up colors, and quietly intricate constructions: all classic ingredients to a Narciso collection, and all alive and well on his runway last evening. Shifts in bordeaux, olive, and burnt sienna got that signature sprinkling of a thick black ribbon-banded strap here, a subtle layering of folds in gradations of said colors there. The only stumble, and a fairly subjective one at that, was a series of dresses chopped short in front with trailing trains made for tripping over in one's boots out back. Which brings us to the biggest Narciso news: Accessories! Those boots, cut at the calf with a just-teetering-enough stiletto in a palette of neutrals, came out to play with a number of dresses; other shoes sported handsome geometric patterning with those peeks of olive grounded in dark shades. "Every time I see a little pencil dress with a strap, I’m like, ‘Narciso!’" exclaimed Filipa Fino post-show of the collection's welcome reference to (you guessed it!) nineties Narciso. Beyond the signature Narciso frocks, looks included, say, roomy leather trou matched up with a particularly fetching shell, also in black, sporting a geometric splay in one corner. The designer's pal, Gloria Estefan, was doubly present (perched front row with husband Emilio, and piping out of the speakers pre-show), and sidled up to Rodriguez enthusiast Claire Danes. " He’s very graphic, he’s got sleek lines, and he knows how to make a woman look good," explained Estafan. Amen, Gloria!
Marc by Marc Jacobs
The combat boot-donning youth have flown the boarding school coop, and raided their big siblings' Marc by Marc classics from seasons past. Dresses hit below the knee in myriad patterns (dark florals; small-scale seventies cubes; a slick, thick horizontal stripe motif, mostly in shades of blue or brown punctuated with rust) for the gals, while their male counterparts got slim cut separates, decidedly matured since the previous blokes' Marc by Marc wardrobe. Besides those combat boots, coed constants included cement-hued boucle coats, jaunty caps (train conductor or bellhop? A little of both, perhaps?), and the occasional metallic trench. A smidge of sheer mesh worn as a vest over white button-downs, pleated dark skirts, and some blazer action, paired with rounded cat eyed specs, lent that cheeky schoolgirl element. Wherein lies consistency between Spring and Fall of this year: last time in the Marc gymnasium (aka the Lexington Avenue Armory), it was P.E. period. Now, it's A.P. English, perhaps, with an after-hours mixology class for extra credit. Excellent attendance this time around, MJ.