Oscar de la Renta
OTHER COLLECTIONS BY: Oscar de la Renta
2012 February 15
Fall 2012: Oscar de la Renta, J.Crew, Badgley Mischka, Tory Burch
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(NEW YORK) Oscar de la Renta
Bows, baubles, and baby pink! That was the overarching theme for Fall at Oscar de la Renta where short saccharine, jewel-encrusted frocks and puffy princess tulle ball gowns reigned supreme at the 42nd Street venue, a change of pace from the designer's typical UES digs. As the show got underway with metallic tweed or gold lace jacquard suiting and rich velvet column dresses, de la Renta's PR team seemed a bit frantic. Pourquoi? Glenda Bailey was in the elevator! "I have to produce a magazine while attending shows," explained the Harper's Bazaar editrix to The Daily. The result? Standing room only. Now back to the show. For the younger set, Oscar offered up blue sixities-ish minis, bedazzled tops with high-waisted skirts, and a plethora of party dresses. Upper echlon devotees were pleased with matching baby blue skirt suits and a pair of perfectly tailored, crease-front ankle trousers teamed with a demure sweater set. Following the finale, guests were encouraged (via a sticker on the show notes) to add suggestions for next season's inspiration. Discuss below!
This presentation was Jenna Lyon doing what she does best: color, color, color, plus that feminine slouchy styling that’s her signature look, and consequently become a trademark of J.Crew as well. Let’s start with Manolo Blahnik for J.Crew (!!!) shoes which came in every upper imaginable (tweed, glitter, patent, suede, metallic) but all in the same pointy-toed pump. Most of the presentation was J.Crew Collection, the more fashion forward line, thus using richer materials. Hence, there was no denim on display: in its place, lots of brocade, flat-front pants, wool pencil skirts, and a particularly zany neon pink skirt. One model with a complete Jenna doppelganger, bearing an uncanny resemblance to the brand's creative director, wore a mustard yellow drop waist dress and thick black spectacles. Another memorable riff on complementary colors: a light purple mohair sweater avec purple brocade pants, plus a neon yellow envelope clutch. Stripes and square cross body bags also factored into the mix. The place was packed, and there seemed to be a general consensus from the crowd that the clothes were cool and of course, wearable. Such is the J.Crew MO, non?
A little Hugh Hefner, a little bed-head, a little seventies flare, and a lot of glamour. Welcome to Badgley and Mischka's vision for Fall 2012, encompasisng their eponymous line plus the lower-priced Mark+James brand. The show opened with a full-length burnished gold gown with adorable cap sleeves with full beading fringe and a deep sexy scoop in the back. Quite a lot of bang for the look! More casual separates got trotted out next, in the case of gold lamé pants with a long grandpa cardigan and thick fur collar. The run of show even described a loose, louche blouse (a “his shirt” look) as a pajama shirt of the decadent style that Hugh might sport, balanced by slim tweed pants in gold that had the perfect amount of flattering flare at the bottom. The more dressily inclined had plenty of cocktail dresses notched at the neckline and dripping in long oblique beading, looking a bit like shot gun shells. The gents certainly know their way around every flattering variation of the gown, mixing lots of black and gold together to create a myriad of sophisticated looks that makes us wish that evening wear could be worn, well, all the time.
Her 9:25 a.m. start time be damned: Tory Burch had a jampacked front row. The music was sort of melancholy and the clothes came in a complementary palette of cool colors. The collection started with cream knits in ladylike pencil skirts and boxy jackets, the sleeves embellished with jet black beading. There were plenty of girly bows, headbands, and flowery clips adornign volumized updos. On that note, Tory was in the mood for blooms, as a number of appliquéd chiffon flowers adorned the bodice of dresses and a flower print or two cropped up on silk shirts. Referencing perhaps vintage Chanel, which Chic suspects Tory owns a lot of, there were tweedy warm and wooly fabrics in feminine shapes for jackets. And of course, a working woman with style always needs a pencil skirt jazzed up with brush-strokes of green and blue plaid, which made it less stuffy. Andt how could we forget that Tory is mother of those iconic medallion flats, and is thus an accessories whiz. Nary a logo was in sight on this season's pointy toed, conservative pumps. But the structured handbags with thick chain link straps were the finishing touch on a collection that was chic yet very accessible, and sellable without a doubt.