2012 February 14
Fall 2012: Carolina Herrera, Jenny Packham, Rachel Roy, Reem Acra
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(NEW YORK) Carolina Herrera
Carolina always gets the who’s who of the fashion and media monde—and that’s attributed to the fact that she delivers season after season. Nicki Minaj wasn't there to quirk up the designer's front row and ham it up in photo opps with Anna, alas, but there was no need or desire for diversions from the perpetually elegant confections. Bonus points for the sleek yet gloriously voluminous coifs, tethered at the crown by simple headbands. Herrera opened her show with takes on the flattering combo of navy and noir, starting off with a deep blue wool jacket with some seriously long-haired black goat fur sleeves. After showing a few separates (those silk Mikado pants were particularly marvelous), she ventured into familiar eveningwear territory, while retaining a sense of cohesiveness. A hand-painted chiffon gown took the cake with double deep V’s in front and back; later on, Herrera fanatic Renee Zellweger gasped an “Oh my God” or two over the latest gowns on offer. Tweed suiting turned out in purple and mauve color gradations, and long leather gloves by Carolina Amato were a sophisticated addition. Kaleidoscope-esque printed silk dresses flaunted bright pops of color. The show closed with aplomb, via a silk faille papaya ball gown avec a piece-y off-the-shoulder neckline with origami foldsslim long sleeves, and a gorgeously full skirt. Oh so Herrera. J'adore!
Harkening back to Lauren Bacall and other forties movie stars provided fodder for Packham's latest looks, including the coif of choice: a twisted topknot hairstyle. Sequins and beaded embellishments provided an ample sparkle quotient, which carried through on one standout, sharply shouldered blazer, rife with jet black beading. There was a halter-necked nude jumpsuit that would look great on the likes of a Charlize or Reese. Long silk gowns in shades of icy blue and dusty pink beckoned for the red carpet. Look out for some Packham credits to crop up in the near future...
It’s okay that Roy's models resembled the designer, replete with long sleek hair and a statuesque bod since she’s cuts quite the striking figure. Gravitating towards a darker swatch of colors, the clothes (plus those hats!) looked appropriate for the Argentine Pampas. On the docket: thick circle knit scarves, flared leather skirts and tops, and thick horizontal stripes in muted hues. Some of the collection erred on the dressier side. See: cropped trousers sporting wide leather cuffs, or a violet suede coat with burnt orange fur lining that peeked out. As a matter of fact, Roy's strongest looks played in rich shades of purple: silk taffeta dresses, a chic cinched jumpsuit, and a gray silk strapless dress with purple accents popping out from underneath.
The kind of woman Reem Acra attires, and designs for, is decidedly dress-inclined. One glance at her lookboard, which featured but one pair of pants, affirms the Acra customer's propensity for chic suits for day and polished numbers for evening. With “feminine power” as Acra's reference du season, the first looks trotted out took the shape of green leather “second skins." As for the said, sole pair of pants—anything but average, cut legging-skinny and crafted in a sheer jet black beaded fabrication. Black and gold were the go-to colors, which were particularly effective in a tweedy lamé skirt suit with some pouchy elbows. Hemlines crept north on the first few minidress-ed evening looks, before literally hitting the floor in a sweep of gold beading. And for the girl who is most comfortable in black, there were two full length dresses with some seriously hot wrap around cutouts that had us green with envy.