2012 February 14
Fall 2012: Marc Jacobs, Alice + Olivia, Zang Toi, Michael Bastian, Carlos Miele
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(NEW YORK) Marc Jacobs
You never know what Marc is going to come up with each season, which is why his show is arguably the hottest ticket in town year after year. Jacobs isn't afraid to challenge his devoted audience and take them on a journey. This season’s destination was somewhere between the pages of a Dr. Seuss book, the mad hatter’s tea table, and the quirkiest fashion iconoclasts throughout front row history. The biggest news, perhaps, was the return of exaggerated hips. The shoes were another story all together—picture a Mayflower passenger, on acid. Pastel crochet-on-crochet action, secured by giant safety pins, also made an appearance, as did separates in a thick, metallic Brillo pad-esque material. As for the hats? Practically defying words, so zany and outsized as they were. These feats of Jacobs’ fancies emerged from the always-enchanting set: the Armory was transformed by Rachel Feinstein into a a mystical forest for the likes of Jared Leto, Rose Byrne, Anna Dello Russo, Terry Richardson, and every major editor in the industry (obviously). Models walked down the runway to music from Oliver! Lest one forget to check in on the timely or tardiness of Jacobs’ now-punctual showings…did the show start on time this year? Try one minute early. Pity the poor latecomers who missed a jaunt into Marc’s latest madcap, darkly whimsical oeuvre!
Alice + Olivia
Recent Daily cover girl Stacey Bendet of Alice + Olivia knows what her customer wants, so she opted to celebrate with a presentation set as an afternoon party. (What's not to love about a little afternoon champagne and Magnum ice cream bars?) The label is celebrating their 10th year in the industry and hit the decade mark with the debut of full-length gowns, alongside her staple party frocks. Each one ruffled, laced, striped, and bedazzled to perfection. Also on the menu? Amazing pants, of course, done in unexpectedly great wide velvet striping or gray washed squares.
You can always count on a little extra bonus from Zang Toi every time he steps into the runway arena. It's not every show that gets a standing O after the audience bursts into applause at random intervals throughout. Just another day in the life of Toi. As Zang tells The Daily, “I’m one of the very few designers who stages a show that brings out the emotion of the audience. The press tells me that something it's different from what they see elsewhere. People get tired and jaded after seeing 20 shows a day; they want something to perk them up. I think my show does that!" Does it ever! This season delivered 34 glammed out looks, heavy on the tapis rouge gowns, in his "glamour at GSTAAD"-inspired show that gathered everyone from Saudi film producer Mohammed Al Turki to Real Housewife Alex McCord. Place your orders and get in line, darlings!
There was major buzz pre-show at Michael Bastian, where the CFDA menswear winner was showing his latest at Exit, and the design doyen did not disappoint the mostly male crowd full of every dapper ed on the block. There were houndstooth top coats and cashmere cardigans aplenty, and double-breasted suits to serve his preppier clients for days. Pinstripe pants and doggy day sweaters added a dose of quirk into the classic Americana lineup inspired by The New York Times 1974 "Most Wanted List" of the city's most popular "extra men" like Bill Blass, Harry Platt, and Norman Mailer--a grouping that Bastian no doubt feels right at home with.
Party on the runway! Carlos Miele threw a petite bash on the catwalk with DJ Anthony and Sean Souza, who was the spinmaster discovered by Madonna. Is there a better way to wake up at the tents than with a coterie of Brazilian cowgirls working it to poppy electro beats? Mais, non! Backstage, he told The Daily: "For many years, I've been going to the south of Brazil to Pampas at a friend's farm, and watching the women who live there. There's such a natural elegance and freedom. They even ride horses all day!" Miele brought that sense of nature and freedom into his Fall collection with creamy crepe cattle pants, sandy wool ponchos, and a smattering of evening gowns and beaded boleros. "I've always had this idea to do a show like this," Miele explained. "Now is the time." Indeed!