2012 February 13
Fall 2012: Diane von Furstenberg, Catherine Malandrino, Tommy Hilfiger, Behnaz Sarafpour
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(NEW YORK) Diane von Furstenberg
You can always count on DvF for a show with pure joy, replete with her practically unparalleled front row fixtures like Anderson Cooper, Oscar de la Renta, Fran Lebowitz, Graydon Carter, Tina Brown, Diane Sawyer, and Barbara Walters, to name a few. The show begins before a model steps foot on the runway. This season, DvF delivered "Rendez-Vous" for Fall/Winter 2012, defined by the designer as a “meeting with suspense and expectation," DvF showed off 48 looks at Lincoln Center with bold prints, punctuated with quotation marks, keyholes and scattered puzzle pieces, while surreal embellishments sparkled against delicate crepe de chine. Complementary shades of the color spectrum sidled up to one another, to delicious effect. Exhibit A: nubby acid green overcoat paired with a pair of bright pink trousers. On the lust list? A dramatically oversized patent leather purple coat. Accessories included elbow length gloves, chain link prints, heart-shaped suede pouches, and clutches strewn with dominoes and puzzle pieces. Diane finished on a high note of show stopping glamour: floor length sequined gown with a dramatically low back that could be perfect come Oscar season. All in all? Heaven!
Perhaps it's new investor Elie Tahari that reinvigorated Malandrino this season, or maybe it's just pure inspiration, but whatever the Parisian designer has been up to lately, we're sold. Her La Feline collection was inspired by today's confident woman. "She's a working woman, she's a mother, but at the same time she has a night life that's sexy," Malandrino told The Daily at her presentation at Chelsea's Eyebeam Center. Transparent frocks, caressed in electric eel-esque undulations of teal, paired with looks in bright cobalt, a pop of Barbie pink (done with Malandrino’s je nais se quoi, of course), and gusts of white to lighten the dark, black-dominated patterns. The designer’s chic cougars in the haute boite intentions? Achieved, for cougars and their daughters alike.
Sunday in the park with Tommy? Pay attention, cadets. Leave it to Tommy Hilfiger to transform Park Avenue's Armory into a park to present his women's Fall 2012 collection. Always one to cobble together character-rich evocations for the togs, the latest TH lady is all about the preppy sporting life reconsidered with city sophistication, dabbling between the UEs and “the hunt club.” How did this pan out? Think ample A-lines, a little sixties aura, and plenty of strong coats ranging (and succeeding) from the pea to the trench in cool fabrications—printed shearling, say, or a vintage military-inflected Melton wool, all heavy on the burgundy. Our reliable prep master, consistent but never one to plateau, upped the sophisticated factor on a classically Tommy aesthetic.
Beautiful from the inside out, literally, was Sarafpour’s seasonal M.O.—translucent textures and x-rays proved to be piquant jumping-off points for her collection. Many of the 20 plus looks were made of camel and black knits, ethereal pleating, or strong black lace. One full length cream gown was so sublime and pure, guests pondered whether its intended purpose was martially oriented. Recurrent touches included vertical silver lines as exposed boning, encircling the waists; grosgrain ribbons emerging from their typical usage in skivvies to nip the waist as well, or multitasking as chic toggling on a heavy gold knit lurex coat. Carved-mirror necklaces on black ribbons hinted at theVictorian. The overall feel? Ballet-hewed, uber feminine, un underscored by the black and nude leather ballet slippers on the ground and ballet buns up top.