2012 February 13
Fall 2012: Thakoon, Derek Lam, Y-3, Kevork Kiledjian, Marlon Gobel
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(NEW YORK) Thakoon
What is Thakoon Panichgul's Fall version of last season's amped-up blue and red plaid? It's a shade in lieu of a print this time around: a vivid, delicious fuschia hue, trotted out at The Plaza yesterday in satin suiting separates, chubby shag jackets, and perfect pencil skirts, punctuated by bright matte red lips and other bits of rouge. "Neon lights have a romantic connotation for me, so I wanted to explore the full spectrum," Panchigul explained to The Daily of his rather illuminating point of entry for the polished yet fresh-faced collection, citing phosphorescent-enthused artists like Wong Kar Wai and David Lynch as examples. Beyond the pink, pretty shifts in camel and black got elevated by leather latticework paneling; the woven insets also cropped up on some of the swingy, particularly covetable coats. The frontal, slightly short slits notched at the front were perhaps the only worrisome detail of Thakoon's latest; everything else felt imminently wearable, with just enough whimsy to be remembered by the end of a long, mid-NYFW roster of shows—and far beyond then, we suspect.
A jaunt to the library has never looked this chic, but this is Derek Lam after all. The man just gets it, season after season. Take, for instance, glossy red skinnies, a simple white tank, and a wreath of cream fur tossed on with the nonchalance of a scarf. Equal parts punchy, practical, and restrainedly decadent, respectively. Florals were rendered to modest scale, grounded by dark backdrops, while lace was completely de-fussed in very 2-D print form, paired with contrasting collars that somehow pared away all the cutesy, retro connotations that the increasingly ubiquitous collar can bring with it, in other designers' hands. Plenty of leather popped up, in equally as delectable—yet staunchly simple—iterations as Lam's Spring '12 show. Even sequins feel elegantly straightforward with Lam's deft touch, and that union of filmy, solid, floor-sweeping skirting with chunky sleeveless sweaters in monochrome noir or blanc felt so ridiculously obvious yet brilliant. Pre-order or prepare to lust after others' latest Lams...
In case you forgot Yohji Yamamoto is still the mastermind behind Adidas collab collection Y-3, the designer sent out a friendly reminder—58, to be exact. Alas, Yamamoto was not on hand at the Soho locale (neither was rumored VIP Shia Labeouf, in case you were wondering), but creative director Dirk Schönberger was seen buzzing to and fro backstage readying the troops and referencing his boss as a central theme throughout. (Employee of the month award? Absolument!) Mini Yamamotos pranced onto a Persian rug catwalk decked out in weekend loungewear done right: extreme drop-crotch jersey pants, oversized sweater robes, woolly anoraks, patchwork ponchos, rainbow-tongued sneaks and cozy casual jumpers for him and her. A night in has never looked so luxe!
No wonder Kevork’s front row was filled with the cool kids; his collection was pretty bleeping cool. They were the clothes that you wear to work to steal your boss' job. Some looks were office inappropriate (a completely sheer black button down is a no-no) but there were plenty of demure knee length knit dresses to make up for it. When we say demure what we really mean is substantial fabrics molded in sexy, form fitting navy and black dresses. Kevork showed some well-timed elements of color, like in a fierce black, red ikat tuxedo. He gave new meaning to fit ‘n flare with knit and leather pants that had a very slim cut save for the last six inches which dramatically flared over pointy toed pumps, courtesy of Jean Michel Cabazat. The best show stopping look was so hot it hurt: all red from chubby red fox fur jacket to toe, including red leather trou somewhere in the middle. Accented with bold black brows and some sharp top buns, you better watch out for the Kevork girl, she might just steal your job and sashay right past you in the baddest looking outfit you’ve seen in a while.
Gobel showed his first major men's collection at Alice Tully Hall with a crowd that included Hamish Bowles, Steven Kolb, and why not...Miss Universe. He took his collection to another universe, and delivered the goods. It may not be for every guy, but this designer, who was groomed working for Michael Bastian and Thom Browne will be the man of the moment. Keep your finger on this one...