2012 February 13
Fall 2012: Edun, Jeremy Laing, Carlos Campos, A Detacher
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(NEW YORK) Edun
Half-way through Fashion Week, and we've already traveled the globe: Japan, Spain, Mexico, and France! Next stop? Africa! Edun creative director Sharon Wauchob winked to her seasonal safari references across the pond with a roundup of animal print frocks, jungle patterned blouses, and eighties punk rock plaid skirts and nylon tops. But this season, she raised the stakes, much to the satisfaction of owner and founder Ali Hewson. (Yep, that's Bono's wife!) "I love the way Sharon has kept her African inspiration while merging it with the contemporary elements you’ve seen today, like the foiling of the sweaters and all the perforated leather," explained Hewson backstage. Speaking of leather, Wauchob's tour de France showed up in a pair of baggy black zip trousers that had Elle's Kate Lanphear doing a double-take.
Punk beats circa the seventies blasted from The Metropolitan Pavillion as Terence Koh and Hope Atherton dodged the paps to sit pretty in their front row perches. Newcomer Jeremy Laing wowed the crowd with his three loves: Japan, poetry, and art. Focusing on subdued separates over his usual penchant for dresses, Laing concocted a lineup of minimalistic denim velvet pants, capes, leather leggings, and more coats than ever before. Our official rating: More of the same, please!
Carlos Campos showed at MADE with a gorgeous crop of looks inflected by Gabriel García Márquez's Love in the Time of Cholera. "I read the book when I was 17. It's about a man who waits 50 years to tell this woman that he loves her—so I wanted to stay true to being romantic and in love. When you have a date, you care about what you're going to wear and how you're going to put it together; you tend to be a little more 'mashy mashy,'" Hmm. A mishmash, especially in the color department? Well, we see a smash, that's for sure.
Geisha gets a contemporary revamp! With a nod to late 18th century Japanese photography and geishas, Mona Kowalska channeled shapes and cuts from kimonos, cherry blossoms, and swaths of ripe orange-red into a thoroughly modern collection. Despite the giveaway traditional hair, the rest of the overcoats, knits, and intermittent dress were great for today’s downtown girl. Thick knit skirts and tapered pants looked incredibly (dare we admit!) comfortable and chic, though it’s hard to know how they would translate on a real body. Fear not, there were also flattering paper bag brown blouses in crisp cotton with wide white Peter Pan collars that erred on the side of playfully ironic, not elementary school playground. There were a few prints such as geometric plaid in navy, red, and white on cropped wool pants. Kowalska, a graduate of the Sonia Rykiel school of color thought, made her biggest statement by perfectly pairing piece together. Like a nondescript brown short-sleeved jacket punctuated by a pink and red colorblocked knit sweater and red tights. Clogs with wooden platforms kept the everything from looking too prim.