2012 February 12
Fall 2012: Alexander Wang, Ruffian, Lacoste, Rebecca Minkoff
(NEW YORK) Alexander Wang
Alexander Wang had one key message for Fall: If it ain't broken, laminate it, lacquer it, and cover it up in shrink-wrap. Amid a barely-lit installation of cubic mirrors, leggy six-footers wove in and out—mouths covered in fishnet turtlenecks, bodies swathed in glossy, buttoned-up tweed raincoats with plastic visor hoods and covetable knee-high boots (that you can preorder Tuesday on TheCorner.com). Longtime loyalist Zoe Kravitz took in the scene front and center, as skirts stayed modest at the calf while pants flirted with a relaxed ankle length in oxblood, black, and peroxide white. Following look 31, Wang's show notes read mysterious: "Please stay seated..." The surprise happened to be Karolina Kurkova, Shalom Harlow and Gisele Bündchen making a Fashion Week PA in runway round number two stomping out onto the catwalk, posing in front of the mirrors, and pulling down their turtleneck masks for the big reveal.
You never know what you to expect when you enter the Ruffian world. This season, designers Claude Morais and Brian Wolk presented Concerto For Two at the Studio at Lincoln Center. "The collection's visual dialogue began while viewing bronze sculptures of Henry Moore set against the backdrop of English estates," read the accompanying show notes. Let's break that down: Ruffian showed off a sublime collection that would appeal to William's wife quite well, but was also the most wearable and sellable collection we've seen from them in quite some time. These boys always deliver, but we predict a new customer is going to find their way to Ruffian come fall.
On an early Saturday morning, snowflakes fell outside in Manhattan, but Lacoste brought the snow inside the tents with a runway snowglobe that captivated the crowd before the show began. (We love that most American journalists were on one side and foreign journalist were on the other.) Mother Nature had nothing to do with this brand, under the direction of designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista, making everyone stand up to take notice that this is not the Lacoste you think you think you knew. The brand delivered sportswear elements (the alligator isn't going anywhere) that were sharp, colorful and wearable. They aren't trying to break any rules, but they continue to pique interest with clothes that people might (gasp!) actually wear!
Minkoff knows how to put on a show. This year, she invited rapper Theophilus London to kick off her collection of animal prints and painterly prints. Covetable cardis, well-cut trou of skinny and billowing variations, and a pinch of blown-out plaid were all thrown in the mix, to great effect. Though she's known for her handbags, her ready to wear capabilities continue to grow every season. Can't wait to see what she's got in her bag next..