2012 February 12
Fall 2012: Jill Stuart, L.A.M.B., Mandy Coon, Rachel Antonoff
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(NEW YORK) Jill Stuart
The only thing that could upstage Giants rookie wide receiver Ramses Barden (well, for the sports-literate, at least) at the Jill Stuart show was the actual collection (and perhaps Nikki Reed—vampires before Super Bowl wins). Ultra-feminine dresses in lace and floral prints, and timeless dark overcoats added a little mystery to the designer’s tried-and-true fashion persona. Reminiscent of a post-baby Sex and the City Miranda with a youthful twist, the collection dared mature women to be schoolgirl flirty by way of sweet yet well-above-the-knee frocks. With actual schoolgirl Daphne Groeneveld strutting in a rich black floral-embroidered number, it’s hard not to want that youthful gait...and the legs to pull it off!
Beautiful tomboy with a directional edge of what's au courant is precisely what Gwen Stefani embodies. So it’s no surprise that her funky fall 2012 collection was in that very vein: fun prints, punchy colors, and a sweater flashing “Punk” across the bodice, and other snippets of Stefani's personal style tumbling out, per usual. It’s no departure from what have come to be known as L.A.M.B staples, a la the baggy jumpsuits, skintight pants, and mini flared skirts. The heels were sky-high; the coifs were Amy Winehouse-esque sixties beehives. Though the usual suspects of silhouettes made their appearance several prints including black and white houndstooth, a black and white geometric pattern, and plaids really gave the collection a fresh feeling. Per usual, L.A.M.B. did its patterns well, and Gwen groupies aren't going to be the only ones wanting in on the singer-cum-designer's action this season!
Someone’s got the blues this season...literally, plus a dash of prints and a wash of white. Skinny pleats, leather, and buckles held their own through a slew of looks that kept the designer’s tough-girl aesthetic intact. But the collection read more spring RTW than anything, with stark white satin, chiffon, and shorts. Despite Coon's deliberate efforts to add more color to her repertoire, ultimately the all-black looks stood out the strongest. (See: caged top with leather and pleated chiffon skirt, all noir and entirely need-it-now status.)
A little black cat and a decidedly unexpected crooner. It’s safe to say that Rachel Antonoff’s presentation was the only to feature an Arrested Development fan favorite (Alia Shawkat), and a model sporting a living, purring form of fur. And a totally detachable and versatile one at that! Beyond the meowing accessories, it was Antonoff's sweet little dresses that truly stood out: Simply silhouetted, a little bit late-era Brady Bunch, done in earthy tones and sporting peter pan collars. The few offering modest hemlines were a refreshing change from the micro mini-minis that've had a strong presence on the season's runways thus far.