2012 February 11
Fall 2012: Yigal Azrouel, Billy Reid, Rag & Bone, Nicole Miller, NONOO by Misha Nonoo
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(NEW YORK) Yigal Azrouël
Muse Françoise Madeleine Hardy gave Yigal Azrouël a hankering for serious luxury; accordingly, no expenses were spared! The designer's Fall 2012 collection was cut from the finest materials to hit the showroom floor: cashmere, Finnish fur, lambskin, and silver fox. Mist wool boyfriend pants, topped with a lambskin blouse and asphalt tweed jacket, opened the show, which later exploded into a plethora of nubby oversized knits and casual cool dresses. Many hit below the knee and hugged every curve to “protect inner intrigue,” like the black long-sleeved leather eye-catcher, or the sophisticated red oak wool dress that followed. Others had a longer, more Romantic slant, like a sheer python print gown and a silk faille evergreen dress, punctuated with leather edging. Azrouel summed it up best in his show notes: “This collection is for a fearless women with a quiet confidence. Her ethos: I live; therefore I am.”
Brewskies for everyone! Billy Reid feted his first runway show at Eyebeam Studios in Chelsea with a gaggle of downtown hipsters, southern gents, uptown eds, and an open bar stock full of enough Dogfish Ale to loosen up even the stiffest journos. "If only Wu served beer! The world would be a different place!" lamented one loosy-goosy while sipping a cold one. Backstage, Reid expounded on the new setup. "The last few seasons we’ve done presentations, but sometimes the sets can overpower the clothes so we wanted to strip it down and make it all about the collection. For better or worse, we had a runway show!" The crowd's consensus? For better! The men's and women's collections stayed true to Billy Reid's down home, prep appeal, but this season the designer kicked it up a notch in the eveningwear category after being inspired on a recent trip to Paris with the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund. For women, that meant souped up, flared leg suits in cobalt blue wool, high-waisted skirting in onx leather or embroidered mohair, and prairie duster overcoats with a flair for the drame. For men, the focus was on whiskey-colored leather blazers, double-breasted tweed overcoats with nutria collars, velvet trousers, and a gigantic chocolate croc weekender for those last-minute jaunts to Louisiana.
Rag & Bone [womenswear]
It was a cross-country journey for Rag & Bone womenswear as Marcus Wainwright and David Neville packed their bags for India, circa 1800s. “We were really interested in India during the English rule,” explained a sleepy Wainwright, whose wife had a baby girl just hours before Rag & Bone Men this morning. How did that historic occupation overseas translate on the extra-long (and extra-chilly) runway at Pier 57? For the most part, English on top, Indian on the bottom. Models strutted out one by one to a techno mash-up soundtrack in Old World floral tapestry jackets, striped wool blanket coats trimmed in leather, and ombre tweed riding blazers paired with relaxed jodhpurs and printed pajama pants—all layered expertly under hip-hugging print skirts and zig-zag knit dresses. Of particular note: the ultra-covetable floral tapestry deva booties that had editors sending in requests before the show wrapped.
Rag & Bone [menswear]
A collection is born...and a baby. Marcus Wainwright spent his Friday morning in the delivery room welcoming his baby girl the world, and then rushed to Pier 57 to meet his collaborator David Neville to introduce their Fall looks. This season, the English blokes were inspired by the British Empire with looks that included tweeds, tails and jackets. Stand out looks include their charcoal herringbone messenger coat and a charcoal cable knit felted wool jumper. Every guy can find something for their closet come autumn.
Miller channeled la boheme by way of the seventies last night for a packed house at Lincoln Center. Militaristic Sgt. Pepper jackets and skin-tight velvet leggings made a hippie-dippy appearance alongside multi-colored patchwork vests and brown suede minis that read more like the retro-rock styling of Janis Joplin and less of the ethereal Stevie Nicks variety. Prints were another major theme of the show allowing Miller to experiment with new patterns on a host of different surfaces like digi florals on silk handkerchief frocks and tweed jackets.
NONOO by Misha Nonoo
One look at NONOO Fall 2012, and it's easy to see why 25-year-old Misha Nonoo won a Rising Star Award this year in the womenswear arena, tying with Southern "It" boy Wes Gordon. The tightly edited line-up of 17 looks played homage to Savile Row and cinematic superstars Anouk Aimée and Francoise Sagan in demure, mix-and-match separates made with Nonoo's young devotees in mind. Think flouncy button-down blouses, silk jackets (Nonoo's hallmark), and cropped ankle pants washed in a gemstone palette of ruby, sapphire, teal, and amethyst.