2012 February 11
Fall 2012: Jason Wu, Peter Som, NAHM, Jen Kao, Alexandre Plokhov
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(NEW YORK) Jason Wu
He may have a new audience via Target customers perhaps best found on eBay these days, but Jason Wu has proved once again that his golden boy status was no fluke. This season, he turns to China (he grew up in Taiwan) to play with military uniform references, mixing classic military colors, details and silhouettes and used leather, lace, fur and curved seams to refine the look. In his show notes, Wu reveals he was exposed to a wide varied of iconic Chinese imagery from the Qing Dynasty to the May jacket to the 1940's Hollywood take on China. (Think Marlene Dietrich in Shanghai Express.) He tells The Daily, "I've been thinking about this collection for a long time. It's a personal collection because it's Chinese. I know it's not the first time that a designer has done this kind of collection, but it's probably the first time you've seen a Chinese designer do that. It's dangerously close to me. I wanted everyone to be in on what I was trying to say with the collection." What can Wu say? We expected heaven, and he delivered.
Som kicked off the second day of NYFW at Made with a collection that explored the precarious balancing act of smoldering femininity and masculine garb. "I wanted to convey a sense of strengh and beauty; this collection is about a streamlined, bold silhoutte with lots of textures, inspired by John Chamberlain and Brancusi," Som explained. Colors for this season included camel, shades of ivory, black, bottle green and burgundy. All in all? You'll want Som. Just trust.
Nary Manivong and Alexandria Hilfiger are all about growing up with the NAHM girl. They showed their Fall 2012 goodies at MADE (Yes, Tommy came to support!): a spate of matured yet utterly wearable get-ups. The looks angled towards women in the throes of growing itno herself, via an array of 18 gorgeous looks. It's those Egyptian prints that we want our hands on ASAP. There were plenty of palazzo pants and ladylike numbers, wallpaper prints on sheer blouses, delicate lacy dresses, and a palette heavy on navy, olive, burgundy, and teal. Cheeky accents included sheer insets on frocks and pops of electric hues (pastel, nearly-neon orange and a sharp turquoise) enlivened the simple shapes and silhouettes. Surely the next taste of NAHM will be as nom nom-worthy as the latest...
Characterized as “East meets West for nightcaps," Jen Kao's Fall 2012 looks took shape as a parade of stark and dark military- inspired coats and dresses, gradually transforming into decadently detailed gowns by show's end. An army of somber hues, angular lines, fur, and fishnets represented the Eastern counterpart in this movie, which was followed by a heavy dose of stripes and plaid, knit vests and shirt dresses, and ample shots of fringe and crochet, and floral-splashed navy silk and satin.
Manskirts and manliner was the theme at former Cloak designer Alexandre Plokhov’s show, whose collection was inspired by rocker Andrew Eldrtich. Long haired male models with eyes rimmed in sooty eyeliner stalked the runway in asymmetric shapes in all shades of black. Asymmetrical tops and asymmetrical trousers were paired with heavy coats and skinny blazers. Black on black on black with hints of charcoal ruled the runway. Does black even come in shades? It appears so, and that's wonderful news to diehard, somberly-clad Gothamites among us.