2012 February 10
Fall 2012: Kimberly Ovitz, Juan Carlos Obando, Creatures of the Wind, WHIT, TSE
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(NEW YORK) Kimberly Ovitz
Longtime editrices have come to know what to expect at chez Ovitz since her entree onto the scene in 2008, but front rower Ivanka Trump bobbing her head to a soundtrack that dropped the F bomb ever other beat? That was a new sight, indeed! Ovitz's eyebrow-raising music was no match, however, for her leggy goth-glam warriors as they stomped down the runway in black-on-black getups edged in human hair or festooned with armor-like 3-D embroidery. On the (somewhat) softer side, the designer riffed on her ubiquitous draped jersey dresses, outfitted with tough leather motos for the cooler autumn temps. The collection may have leaned toward the dark and heavy, but a subtle injection of cocoa and a white printed chiffon gown kept the somber on the sunnier side.
Juan Carlos Obando
"I love what The Chemical Brothers did with the movie Hanna. I've been listening to that soundtrack nonstop!" said Obando to The Daily backstage on his starting off point for Fall. The LA-based designer's repertoire is expanding this season with a new crop of tailored gowns (an alternative for his drapey numbers) and a first go at fur—make that faux. "Ha! Did I trick you? It's all fake! Don't you love it?" gushed Obando in regards to his furry patchwork of "mink" and "grizzly" jackets atop slinky silk frocks and slim evening trousers. "We have a lot of momentum going after Viola Davis wore my pink dress to the Academy Award Nomination Luncheon," he said. "We're just trying to keep up and push forward!" Push forward he did with electric green motocross toppers, neon brocade suiting, and an array of poppy asymmetrical gowns just in time for Oscar season.
Creatures of the Wind
Elves, fauns, and fairies! That was the reference point for Creatures of the Wind's whimsical offering unveiled last night in an intimate room at the Desmond Tutu Center in Chelsea. Hamish Bowles, Lynn Yeager, and Mickey Boardman nabbed primetime spots in front (along with Anna, of course) as the rest of the crew stood on tippy toes to catch a glimpse of a teeny bopper pink cape here or a crafty, throw shawl there. The kitschy-cool bent added an air of intrigue to the presentation, but designers Shane Gabier and Chris Peters didn't forget their money-makers: tailored trousers in pink paisley or mustard yellow, striped mohair sweaters, and a show-stopping pale blue ruffle dress as the grand finale.
For Whitney Pozgay's inaugural runway turn, a cool casting and a focus on the kind of wear-everywhere clothes that too many emerging designers ignore made for a collection that the majors (as in retailers) should love. Metallic brocade trousers and a pleated leather skirt (from one of the contemporary market's preeminent skirtmakers) were among the most want-now, wear-now pieces, while the extraterrestrial planetary print was Pozgay's idea du moment.
Brian Reyes is looking home sweet home after his second presentation as creative director for the luxury cashmere giant. With architecture on the brain, Reyes transformed classic neutral knits into daring new weaves, provoking the core TSE customer onward and upward. (Knit jacquard, anyone?) As for the silhouettes, sheer column skirts and easy, voluminous sweaters held rank beneath a petite range of elegant outerwear from a blue fur vest to a leather trench.