2011 February 18

New York Fall 2011: Isaac Mizrahi, L.A.M.B., Dax Gabler

Issac Mizrahi Fall 2011 Issac Mizrahi Fall 2011
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(NEW YORK) Isaac Mizrahi
"Cake" was the befitting title for Isaac Mizrahi's fall 2011 collection. The celebratory show opened with puffy pastel poodles and gorgeous party cakes carried by male models in standard restaurant garb. As for the clothes, the designer whipped up ultra-feminine frocks for every occasion (matching pup not included). A calf-grazing charcoal skirt with a matching long sleeve top worked business-casual while dresses in mint, lavender, and electric pink owned the nighttime affairs. Most compelling was Mizrahi's lack of detailing for fall; the clean silhouettes hit a home run with only a well placed over-sized bow here or there. Scattered among the parade of fuss-free frocks were easy mix-n-match pieces from floral print coats with cigarette pants to deep-v knits atop elegant ball gown skirts. Variety, practicality, and a dose of feminine appeal make this fall line a retailer's dream.

Military Girls, Soldier Girls, and Ragga Muffins. London Girls, Buffalo Girls, Mod Girls, and Glamour Girls. As you can see, there was no shortage of muses for
Gwen Stefani this season. The platinum songstress experimented with a little of everything: tailored menswear, black and white 60's-inspired gowns, and military regalia. Her top-selling plaid pieces achieved new play in slouchy red and gray trousers, 60's swing dresses, and pleated maxis. However, this fall her "Buffalo Girls" and "Ragga Muffins" took center stage. Navajo gowns and minis alongside Native print knits felt fresh and on point. Ditto the camel-colored dusters and nubby plaid outerwear in desert hues. 

Dax Gabler
Devi Kroell separated from her eponymous company in May 2010 and has resurfaced this season with a new brand called Dax Gabler. Loyal fans will be happy to know that the ready to wear, footwear, and handbag line is priced significantly different than anything we've seen from Kroell: shoes range from $195 to $425, handbags are tagged between $350 and $895. For her premiere collection, Kroell was inspired by her Tyrolean grandmother--who holds the brand's name--and the Tyrolean artist Alfons Walde. A muted palette of gray, chocolate, cognac, and black dominated sheep wool cardigans, boyfriend blazers, and nubby trenches. "We used undyed lamb’s wool and it smells almost like a sheep. That sounds strange but it's in tune with the heirloom heritage of the collection," remarked Kroell. As for the accessories, ballet flats, knee-high boots and ankle booties pulled inspiration from the traditional moccasins made from pony, calf, and patent sliced leather, and standout faux alligator in gold. Handbags, Kroell's signature, ran the gamut from cross-body to drawstring to the trusty tote and were accessorized with leather and iron ring straps--a reference to alpine hunter-gatherers of a bygone era. To sum it up, Devi Kroell produced an accessible collection full of pure essentials driven by leisure and comfort for the modern woman. This kind of design is exactly why we fell in love with her in the first place.