2011 February 15

Runway Reviews: Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs Fall 2011 Marc Jacobs Fall 2011
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(NEW YORK) Marc Jacobs
With a set inspired by a snow-addled NYC street, Marc Jacobs' "very disciplined, very severe" take on Fall drew on Rachel Feinstein's recent "The Snow Queen" exhibition, as well as George Condo portraiture. But the clothes? Kinky! A collab with House of Harlot resulted in plenty of latex, including button-downs, while Stephen Jones' tightly-strapped berets undermined any notion of primness. But polka dots are Jacobs' big idea for Fall. Along with the usual big-and-small, blouse-and-skirt treatment, he ingeniously developed a vinyl pailette that became a fabric for trim pencil-skirts (paired with zip-up jackets in an eerily cheap carpet-like texture). Applique lace and ruffled collars added an air of the Edwardian, but the lurex cropped sweaters and vinyl bomber trimmed in fox? Pure Jacobsean. This long, snowy winter's not looking so bad after all.