2010 February 19
Runway Reviews: Calvin Klein Collection, Isaac Mizrahi
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(NEW YORK) Calvin Klein
After years of staying on course with futuristic and purist exploits that no one in fashion had even dreamed of, much less put on the runway, Francisco Costa has gained a huge advantage over the rest of the pack. His new collection for Calvin Klein is polished to perfection, an exquisite fine-tuned ode to what this true original has always stood for. That the world is now trailing him comes at no surprise. In a palette of mostly bone, black, Klein blue and matte silver, he gave both loyal clients and Calvin neophytes a reason to worship. From a flawless black sheath made of bonded viscose and hammered cashmere to a wool and silk draped coat with a roomy, sculptural sleeves, this flattering and imminently wearable collection caters to the Calvin Klein Collection woman at her best. She even has a few splendid options for evening, courtesy of silk lurex column dresses that will appeal to those heroic, happy few gala-goers who remain loyal to understatement. Bravo.
Isaac Mizrahi described his show as an “Upper East Side camping trip” referencing bag ladies, Irving Penn, the Met Museum's Japanese Armor show, Avedon and even Avatar as influences. On that note, his set became a cityscape with trees looming overhead and a live band drumming away in the corner. But despite all the references, the clothes were mostly understated, cool, and wearable, such as a cashmere polar fleece shift and a quilted olive jacket. A camo vest with a sparkly green, fur-trimmed hood and a dress with a print of the skyline were more obvious. A series of sequin dresses conjured up Mizrahi's supermodels of yesteryear. The series of seven “winter fairy” looks that closed out the show under falling snow made for a breathtaking finale. Overall, there is plenty to fill his new store just off Madison Avenue.