2010 February 17
Runway Reviews: Rodarte, Narcisco Rodriguez
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(NEW YORK) Rodarte
“We wanted the girls to look like they were walking on the moon,” said Kate Mulleavy after the dramatic, black-lit finale of the brand's Fall 2010 effort at Gagosian. In the process, they’ve send their captive audience over the moon with a masterful and euphoric display. Like Marc Jacobs this season, the CFDA winning sisters ignored the seasonal palette clichés and instead illustrated their ‘sleepwalking’ theme with sensuous whites, personality-driven florals, and intricate knits. The Fall Rodarte was all about imaginative draping, haunted pearl details, and airy fabrics. But more importantly, this collection served as almost a polar opposite to the duo’s last line and evoked a completely contrasting--but very enticing--set of emotions.
Once again Narciso Rodriguez honed in on the importance of detail and clean, soft lines, resulting in a collection that was effortlessly sexy. Black and charcoal gray spherical hats sliced and diced the separates, giving the designs a distinctly geometric feel. Cut-outs and shoulder detailing were delicate, while charcoals, steely grays and pewter hues were the perfect backdrop for shots of gold and emerald. Body-wrapping details and asymmetry provide injected the eveningwear with movement--and promised to flatter the figure. Rodriguez knows just how to reveal, without ever disclosing too much. His successful cocktail of crisp, clean silhouettes, luxurious silk fabrics and surprise detailing hit all the right notes.