2010 February 16
Runway Reviews: Zero + Maria Cornejo, Rad Hourani
(NEW YORK) Zero + Maria Cornejo
Maria Cornejo explored the same themes for both men and women this season: tailoring, menswear details, strong shoulders and cocoon shapes. Her menswear, now in its second season, pushed her into slightly more androgynous territory than in seasons past. Tapered pants, loosely draped around the hips made appearances on both men and women, as did slouchy knits and skinny leather pants. Still feminine were Cornejo’s softly structured dresses where color and pattern came into play. Digital prints included one inspired by Cornejo’s own shadow and another by yellow autumn leaves. The pieces employ the “riotous joy of explosive color” to evoke a vaguely African feel, according to Cornejo. Also unique to women were two black, shearling jackets, one of which Cornejo wore to take a bow.
“It’s all about transformation, layering and unisex,” Rad Hourani explained of his fall collection. The jackets were twisted about until they may have been upside down or backwards as far as the audience could tell, but the ambiguity was intentional--there’s no proper way to wear the pieces. A coat can be worn as a cape, backpack, skirt or just about anything else you can imagine, Hourani revealed. Sleeves and fingerless gloves were both detachable. In theory, it sounds gimmicky--but the result was thought-provoking clothes that could have come straight out of a Tim Burton film. The rest of the collection was par for the course for Hourani: an all black, androgynous collection full of leather, neoprene, chunky knits, sequins, and zippers. And, of course, the bandage leather pants he’s best known made appearances in several styles, so there’s still something for the customer who prefers their clothes not have transformative qualities.