2010 February 16
Runway Reviews: Jill Stuart, Barbara Tfank
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(NEW YORK) Jill Stuart
Jill Stuart’s go-to girly girl has been missing since before Spring 2010’s uber-sexy turn, but at least Fall 2010 was a bit more familiar. A strong military theme opened the show, complete with cargo skinny pants, long olive coats, and thigh-high lace-up boots. Luckily, the military looks merged into a less literal take; coats took a very successful turn in army-green blazers and green and navy plaids. Of course, Stuart’s party girls won’t be going without this season’s worth of dancing dresses. A leopard one-shoulder minidress will keep her club-goers happy, and a selection of ruched minis in jewel tones are a bit more sophisticated (without sacrificing sexiness). Tough? Of course—a military theme can’t very well be saccharine—but Stuart’s collection certainly won’t alienate her die-hard fans. In fact, it might just make a few new ones.
Barbara Tfank’s Fall 2010 collection was an invitation to explore the past, as she presented sweet cap-sleeved taffeta party dresses and classic, frosty fox stoles. Tfank’s last collection motioned towards the past as well, and this season she drew on artwork by Raoul Dufy. Honoring the power of color, Tfank lit up the studio space with emeralds and eggplant. Timelessly glam, the designer caters to those who crave frocks that are both unique and clever. Unearthing Dufy’s treasures proved to be an ingenious way to achieve this desire for a one-of-a-kind look. Tfank created her own fabri cs, which she revealed doubles her workload. “It takes months and months to do, but I’m hooked on it. There’s no turning back now.” And thankfully so!