2010 February 15

Runway Reviews: Simon Spurr, Calvin Klein Collection Men's

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(NEW YORK) Simon Spurr
He's been a New York resident for a decade, but Simon Spurr is still an English boy at heart—and his heritage came through in his Fall collection, which he showed on the runway. Whether it was inspired by Pete Doherty (think narrow suits in bold vertical stripes with tipped-back fedoras) or “street geezers” (denim, trainers, and luxe leather jackets), one thing is clear: Simon Spurr can cut. Three-piece suits had plenty of Savile Row polish, and the outerwear was perfectly polished for those men searching for an investment piece. A “modern Thomas Crown” character sported a piped gray suit over a slim turtleneck, evne though more formal looks still nodded to Spurr’s English swagger.

Calvin Klein Collection Men's
In terms of collection hype, gents often play second fiddle to the ladies. But Italo Zucchelli easily defied the odds with a brilliant effort that showcased his versatility and love for high-concept textures and custom fabrics. The recent CFDA winner succeeded in every category for fall, thanks to his intuitive feel for fabrics such as embossed nylon and mylar. An impressive palette full of metallic and complimentary earthy tones rendered the collection even more directional, but the superb variety of power jackets, shiny suits, and A-list overcoats will ultimately prove irresistable on the sales floor. Overall, an enormous addition to the calendar.