2010 February 15
Runway Reviews: Lela Rose, Luca Luca
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(NEW YORK) Lela Rose
A star-gazer at heart, Lela Rose explored the vast universe and its sparkling constellations in her latest collection, which conjured up images of shattered landscapes and craggy rocks. “I went to the Galapagos Islands, and in the evening they had the most amazing nighttime skies.” Influenced by the work of Vija Celmins, Rose called on prints taken from Hubble telescopes and then reinterpreted these into skirts and frocks. Gowns dripping in crystals looked as if they had been plucked right out of the midnight sky. “I certainly wouldn’t use the term dark because this collection isn’t somber," she said. "But we used a midnight sky palette to create something that felt other-worldly.” While her head may have been in the clouds, Rose delivered a thoughtful, cohesive collection that served as a departure from her usual parade of color.
Raul Melgoza delved into the world of opposing forces for Fall 2010, his fourth effort for Luca Luca. Sequins served to liven up otherwise straightfoward grey wool, while a black leather and jersey vest layered over a lace bodysuit was paired with lacquered wool trousers to dazzling effect. Referencing the work of Frank Gehry, Melgoza looked to architecture as his collection’s launch pad. "I wanted to create harmony from opposing elements," he said. "The sheer against the dense, for example." Melgoza appears to be increasingly pursuing his own direction with each passing season at the house. “Slowly, every season, I want to infuse more of me, which is a little sporty with a certain casual sensibility,” the designer noted. Here's hoping for more of that next season.