2010 February 13
Runway Reviews: Michael Angel, Jenni Kayne, Project Runway, Nicole Miller
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(NEW YORK) Michael Angel
“Today is a nice introduction into a new Michael Angel girl,” the designer explained before delivering looks inspired by Francesco Scuvallo, Degas and stained glass windows. “She is evolving by focusing on saying a complete story and working with texture and layering. I’m working with print in a way I’ve never worked before, and that is keeping it as an underpinning and having it come out.” Titled “New Eccentric,” the collection’s dusty palate with bursts of saturated color made for a feminine feel teeming with attitude that felt rough and simultaneously soft. Bold, structured silhouettes were polished and pretty, but underscored Angel’s primary notion: “She is very well-dressed, but a little bit ‘off’ and still, of course, rebellious."
Jenni Kayne calls Los Angeles home, but she tapped into the pastoral milieu of a country girl for her latest collection. “I’ve referenced equestrian culture and the notion of plucking a girl from the English countryside and placing her in the city,” Kayne offered. Known for her leather separates and urban sportswear, Kayne stayed true to form, delivering shells, capelets, and paneled frocks in autumnal pops of forest green and mustard. An avid rider, she alluded to the sport without becoming heavy-handed. “The price range this season is a lot lower than it has been in the past, and so it is opening up to a more contemporary audience ," she said. "It was the next step.” More like gallop.
Nicole Miller’s Fall 2010 collection celebrated the harmony between soft femininity and unrelenting strength. Last season, Miller explored a love affair with gray, and she continued with a likeminded color palate, infusing the pieces with deep wines, saturated navy, and slashes of graffiti and cityscape prints. While Miller did deliver body-con favorites amped up with attitude and never a trace of fuss, looser cowl necks and hooded wraps injected movement into the thoughtful collection.
“I hope you guys are excited, because we have some amazing talent here today,” Heidi Klum promised before the show. Klum, along with Michael Kors, Nina Garcia, and special guest host Faith Hill, sized up hopefuls as they delivered ten distinct collections. Janeane Marie Ceccanti gleaned inspiration from rocks, adorning dresses and blouses with geometric embellishments and crystalline elements. Ultra-wearable, swingy silhouettes and pops of turquoise breathed life into the pieces. Jonathan Peters presented a collection he titled “The Aviary,” as he was influenced by all things winged. Frocks in warm chocolates and fiery reds looked as if they could literally take flight. Meanwhile, Emilio Sosa explored bold hues, texture and pattern in his “Color Me Bad” collection. Each performed commendably, and for those outside the clubby judging circle, the winner remains a mystery.