2007 February 3

Ruffian - New York Fall 2007

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(NEW YORK) Though much of fashion's current '90s infatuation merely mines exhausted minimalist territory, Ruffian's inspired collection, their most assured yet, managed to reference without retreading, making its conceits seem truly fresh and very much their own. Wolk and Morais enhanced the era's stark, humorless black, white, red, and navy, reimagining it as heartbreakingly lovely noir, cream, carnelian, and sapphire. Proportions were remixed (sleeves shrunk, waists raised) and texture redefined (softly grainy as pointillist paintings or glossy as purebred pelts). But it was the ruching and ruffles tumbling like waterfalls that ultimately stole the show; the two have the judgement and timing of true auteurs. At once refined and edgy, uptown and down, ultimately the duo trancended referentiality to carve something truly their own.|page|