2011 September 27

Spring 2012: Versus, Dsquared², Aquilano.Rimondi, Cristiano Burani

Versus Spring 2012 Versus Spring 2012
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(MILAN) Versus
Donatella Versace scored a 3-pointer for the Versus team win, assisted courtside by Christopher Kane of course. Along a pastel painted gymnasium runway, the Versus girl was decked out in sporty cheer squad uniforms for the athletically inclined, or at least the most spirited among us. Girly girl ra-ra numbers--fitted on top, slit here or there, and pleated below for a flirty hemline--worked best for those high kick moments while shiny two-tone leather warmup jackets against sheer chiffon practice pants balanced the femme fabulous offering. MVP honors went to the smattering of lilac, yellow, turquoise, and pink shifts, tweaked with a drop waist and bold piping or patterned with a colorful ikat print. Looks like Fall's working girl wanted some play time.

The scene: Glastonbury’s mud-caked music fest. The concert lineup: Coldplay and U2. The look: Outdoor rain-or-shine getups with a tinge of hippie dippy free-for-alls and high-heeled wellies. Mods (Heinekens in hand) stomped down the muddy, honky tonk runway for Dsquared2, thanks to the amusing sprinkler system installed by Dan and Dean Caten. Aside from an evening piece or two (a floor-length galactic print coverup or purple silk gown with a revealing slit) loads of denim, Americana separates, and screen print tees headlined the collection with layers of flannel, leather motos, or hipster-y vests. Overall, the show was a smash hit among editrices needing a pick-me-up on the last leg of the Milan tour.

Despite a jam-packed schedule full of fittings for Fay and a 20th anniversary collection for Piazza Sempione, the Aquilano.Rimondi boys found time to present a lavish and well-received collection for their eponymous line. Nodding to the Italian Renaissance, the dynamo duo offered up ladylike pleated chiffon frocks and high-waisted pencil skirts festooned with soft Roman-esque digi-prints, metallic brocades, ornate Rococo beading, and embroidered 3-D swirls. The sculptural petit peplum tops and tailored dresses with tulip-shaped skirting will be a sure bet with Aquilano.Rimondi’s lunching ladies. 

Cristiano Burani 
While many journos were hopping the train to Paris or jet-setting back to the States, a lucky set stuck around for one of the most intriguing and quietly compelling shows of the season. On Via Clerici, Cristiano Burani debuted his opulent Spring lineup composed of glittery eveningwear and graphic daytime designs. Sheer fishtail gowns, fluid neutral trousers, and coquettish jumpers dripped in silver sequins. Geometric lines came into play later with linear mod-ish blush shifts, striped leggings or skintight bloomers (alternating black and sheer), split sequin-stripe dresses, and a one-piece bathing suit or two. Although the shimmery elements and bold lines shaped the show, a few python pieces held their own--namely a pair of exotic skin shorts combined with a ruffle zip-up jacket.