2010 September 27

Runway Reviews: Versace Versus, Emporio Armani, Just Cavalli

Versace Versus Spring 2011 Versace Versus Spring 2011
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Christopher Kane finally took a leap with Versace this season by putting on a Versus show with an eager front row and a school playground set. There were swings, jungle gyms, and most importantly, inspired Scottish tartan dresses. Kane lengthened few of his numbers while incorporating mixed color prints into his repertoire. The collection also featured everything from stripes to microscopic flower prints to sheer tops to decisive color blocking that all added up to a very distinctive, very bothered and colorful School of Kane. It wasn’t what we expected from Versus this season, but it’s admirable that Donatella Versace had so much confidence in her pupil to let him run with his own childhood-inspired agenda.

"Fancy girl" was this season's Emporio Armani muse, and the designer brought that ideal to life through number of dawn grey jackets, plentiful raspberry separates, sleek pants, above the knee skirts, and nature-inspired accessories. This was essentially a very clean and referential collection that drew upon the tailoring of the main label, along with newer playful trends such as rubberized tops, a juxtaposition of leggings with evening, and some nice play with organza.

Roberto Cavalli must be clearly focusing on his tremendous 40th anniversary, because his younger collection just wasn’t up to par this season.  Devoted to young jet-setters, the Just Cavalli look consisted of super-washed denim numbers, plenty of pearls (that kept rolling down the runway), leopard print trousers, mixed leather shoes, and an endless array of wide-brimmed hats. Despite few pleasant moments in the show (like the attractive macro-necklaces and the breezy silk dresses) this effort just had too much going on, and none of it was particularly well styled. Unless, of course, you’re spending your summer in Ibiza, which might have been the effect Cavalli was going for anyway.