2010 September 27
Runway Reviews: Dolce & Gabbana, Marni, Salvatore Ferragamo, Missoni, Brioni
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(MILAN) DOLCE & GABBANA
Sumptuous lace was the name of the game for the Italian design duo this season, commencing with a carnival of white and climaxing with an optimistic parade of bedazzled short, red carpet-bound winners. There was a great amount of conviction and care in the team's soft jackets, shorts, and Mediterranean-inspired summer dresses. A few deconstructed animal prints also made cameos, but the showstoppers mostly included the white columns accented with pastel flower prints and well-positioned crystals. "After that finale," enthused Kylie Minogue. "I wanted to be anywhere, somewhere where I could wear these dresses and have the time of my life."
Get ready for a neon spring like no other this season thanks to Fendi, Jil Sander, and now Marni's bold renderings. From the bright sequined finale to the gallery of Mondrian-inspired prints to an abundance of green, orange, and yellow, this was a showing that was full of optimistic and calculated humidity. Consuelo Castiglione, of course, still delivered with the brand’s offerings of accessories, like the signature enamel necklaces and a gorgeous selection of shoes. Though the runway headpieces were a bit questionable, the overall mood was pleasing.
This season, the brand wanted to achieve "a marriage that simultaneously blends bohemian and aristocratic backgrounds," and the collection had enough variety to live up to that and more. Standouts included comfortable-looking pocket dresses, seductive crochet bikinis, and timeless Sahara jackets. The collection definitely had a breezy, unassuming quality thanks to the perfect use of Ferragamo's signature sand colors as well fresher tones like lemon, grass, and sky blue. The girls on the runway sported flat sandals, gold pendants, and resort-ish head scarves. It was essentially a showing to celebrate a woman who knows what she wants, how to get it, and how to keep it.
You have to commend Angela Missoni for having the guts to put out a very individual-looking spring collection which paid tribute to different cultures as well as contemporary art movements. Her spring was about an energized, almost manic array of waistcoats, cropped tops, and jackets that all seemed to come in breezy, voluminous shapes. It worked for some pieces (like beautifully embroidered knitwear), and looked messy for others, like some overdone maxi skirts. However, the colors and textures were most intriguing, ranging from healthy pop splashes of oranges and blue, mini collages incorporated into geometric patterns, and messages interwoven into some stronger, braver pieces.
"My goal was to make the Brioni woman more light," said Alessandro dell'Acqua of his first full collection for Brioni. "My feeling is that the Brioni woman has been a little bit stiff lately." And on his premiere try, the designer emphasized both the brand's signature dinner jackets and his own flair with flowing columns and A-line dresses finished off with pops of coral red, peach, and tasteful chalk white. Materials for this collection comprised of combination of wool, cotton poplin, and lightly sewn lace, all done up with quality and some fresh dell'Acqua mojo.