2008 September 24
Jil Sander - Milan Spring 2009
(MILAN) It's hard to get more modern than Raf Simons' creations for Jil Sander. In his world, newness is all, even when it feigns austerity to the naked eye. Tuesday's show was breathtaking, a testament to Simons' unique and uncompromised vision to offer women sophisticated and complex clothes that can legitimately work in the hors-runway scheme of things. There was a bounty of suiting, but jackets had surprisingly draped backs, which nicely contrasted with the angularity of asymmetrical hemlines in front. To play with last spring's transparency created with all that netting, fringe was ubiquitous yesterday. It was used horizontally in panels to give a black sheath an interesting back before Simons let loose, sending out black and white minidresses endowed with rows upon rows of floor-length fringe. Even a small shoulder bag had the sidewalk-grazing stuff, proving that few do quiet drama as Simons does. No wonder the designer came out for his bow just the slightest bit choked up--sometimes, all that beauty is a bit hard to handle.