2008 September 24
Salvatore Ferragamo - Milan Spring 2009
(MILAN) Cristina Ortiz's collection for Ferragamo was focused, but in the wrong places. Volume, surtout around the hips and abdomen region, was countered by a bareness on top. Case in point: loads of free-form frocks fastened with leather halter straps, which occasionally trickled down the back rather successfully in makeshift corsets. While the palette of butter, chartreuse, sand, khaki and pops of orange and cherry red was spot-on for Spring, one wonders if the looks will suit the Ferragamo customer, who we suspect would be more amenable to highly sophisticated, more tailored pieces. The footwear and handbags, of course, were spot-on, a credit to James Ferragamo's revolutionizing of the century-tested Ferragamo aesthetic. But after two seasons of rather rootless ready-to-wear, one wonders what identity Ortiz envisions for the brand.