2012 February 27
Milan Fall 2012: Salvatore Ferragamo, Missoni, Aquilano.Rimondi, Marni
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(MILAN) Salvatore Ferragamo
Massimiliano Giornetti continues to prove his way with women, and his Fall effort for Ferragamo demonstrated a new breadth in his offerings and a deepening of his technique. The collection kicked off with a military story, featuring double-breasted, brass-buttoned coats with the requisite detailing, like panels of leather. Showing a penchant for harder lines, Giornetti then threw in some lace with the velvet and leather pencil skirts and cropped, loose trousers. A romantic peasant dress moment, featuring metallic embroidery, tiered skirts, and an off-the-shoulder silhouette, foreshadowed the final lace looks in gilt and black. Opulent luxury, characterized by restraint: such is the style of the new Ferragamo.
A country girl in the city must be a theme that Angela Missoni can relate to, because her hybridized Fall collection was among her most winning in recent memory. Heavy use of leather and fur, coupled with an earthy palette of sienna, bone, slate, and all sorts of blues, nodded to Missoni's own particular take on the warrior chic trend that has been sweeping certain runways. A leaner silhouette, characterized by a slim pant, below-the-knee pencil skirt, and body-con sheath, was further streamlined with a narrow empire-waisted belt used on a variety of looks. Aline Weber sported an especially great overcoat in a bluish blanket stripe with a wide fox collar that was just one standout in Missoni's ever-strengthening outerwear category. But the bravest of office-bound chicettes will have the most fun with a knit cerulean turtleneck and matching-ish jacket—it, too, trimmed in fur. Work it!
Courtly chic! Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi capitalized on one of F12's emerging trends—the printed pantsuit—with a brocade-heavy collection that emphasized the art of dressing up. These designers aren't inclined to show bravado, but their technical prowess in both patternmaking and embellishment revealed themselves in full force. A final series of great-looking black dresses—mostly mini, and glittering with jeweled embroidery—are destined for a red carpet near you in the near future.
With the H&M stuff destined for city streets, Consuelo Castiglioni is officially having a moment. No wonder she opted for a petit departure. Her streamlined Fall collection was reminiscent of the swinging sixties (pastel hoisery, colorblocked separates) decked out with the classic Marni touches (full sleeves, great outerwear, embellishment) the masses are bound to love. Pajama dressing made a cameo, as did colored mink (a rust/sand vest with a tangerine skirt was especially fetching). The black-and-gold motif, one of Milan's major statements (to say nothing of Jessica Chastain's Oscar dress) remains en runway in full force.