2012 February 23

Milan Fall 2012: MaxMara, Prada

Max Mara Fall 2012 Max Mara Fall 2012
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(MILAN) MaxMara 
Taking cues from Bauhaus design and films by dark director Fritz Lang, strong outerwear got trotted out on the latest MaxMara runway, per usual, with an emphasis on army hues, along with a splash of nautically-inflected stripes tucked beneath. Icy, pale grays, rich-looking camel and plenty of noir got suited up sharply. Accessories-wise, leg warmers (some in leather, others bound with strappy buckles) hovered above silver skimmers, and tasseled skinny scarves got looped on many a cou. Suspenders added a touch of pluckiness to some looks, a hint of the boudoir came courtesy of silky, slip-esque layers, a wide B&W wool plaid made an appearance, and jaunty caps in coordinating shades came along for the ride. All aboard the MaxMara express! 

After last season's jaunt to a Miuccia-fied fifties roadshow, complete with flame-licked heels and automobile appliques on leather, the latest Prada journey was seventies splendor. See: plenty of patterns and slightly off-kilter clusters of embellishment; empire waists with a duo of buttons like the back of a peacoat; wrap dresses and kilt-like skirts, topped with a slice of midriff here or cropped and cuffed trou down there? With Miuccia's deft touch, a jumble as such works swimmingly. Last season's round-shoulded, silk-kissed, and floral paneled coats morphed into slimmer, longer calf-grazing numbers in appealingly retro diamond, hexagon, and rhombus patterns in amalgams of sweet potato, lilac, and cognac. As always, the shoes shined, this time with thickly platformed rubber soles (in narrow-toed brogues, covetable Mary Janes with a diverse slew of strap options, and sporty lace-ups). But like the curlicues of fire unfurled on Miuccia's last footwear hit parade, this season's rubberized treatment had the gooey, half-dipped, spillage-prone effect of a Maker's Mark bottle. Apropos, as there was lots to drink up from Prada's tap this time around.