2010 March 1
Runway Reviews: Emilio Pucci, Marni, Salvatore Ferragamo
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(MILAN) Emilio Pucci
There were few "Pucci prints" in Peter Dundas' Fall collection, but no matter--let them have scarves! Dundas' Pucci is governed by strong, sexy ideas about dressing, and instead of trudging through the archives, he just does his thing, to joyous effect. High-waisted second-skin suede pants, awash in fringe? We'll take them. Microscopic backless dresses abounded, fringe flying wildly or unlaced-up the thigh, and the models looked heavenly. Clean-cut jackets showed off Dundas' scissor skills, but the black, semi-sheer lace-up body stocking on Abbey Lee was pretty great, too. Prepare yourselves for the Balmain effect, and pre-order now before it sells out.
Consuelo Castiglioni appeals to a very specific type of dresser, the one who minds neither big, bold prints or big, bold shapes. It requires courage to sport so much volume, but clearly, clients are up to the challenge. (Last year, Marni opened a second New York location just off Madison Avenue.) For Fall, Castiglioni veered a bit seventies, with geometric prints dominating dresses, pants, bermudas, and skirts. There were a few more fluid pieces, such as a jersey V-necks and swingy skirts. A few tunics and and bermuda-length shorts in a palette of blush, marigold, and burnt siena offered a nod to Marni's style of basics. And on the accessory front, there were some great single-strap bags and pointed-toe platforms that will keep devotees nice and satisfied.
Massimiliano Giornetti's first women's collection for Ferragamo focused on easy, rich-looking clothes in luxurious fabrics like cashmere, silk, lame, and wool. The palette of chocolate, chestnut, burnt siena, gold, and camel felt appropriately luxe. The focus was clearly on suiting, with shorts making repeat appearances. Luckily for the Ferragamo customer, these are pleated and decently mid-thigh length, although the Ferragamo customer may need to get a bit brave. (This is, after all, Fall/Winter). But things were much more covered up on top, with tie-necked blouses and nipped jackets appearing in most looks. Fitted, cable-knit turtleneck sweaters were so finely rendered that stores best order generously--and Loro Piana ought to be concerned. Ultimately, the woman who wanted the shoes is now going to desire that olive drab cape with the marigold lining just as much. Or maybe the camel suede pants. Or the tunic embroidered with metallic discs. Or the chocolate jersey halter gown, sexily worn with outerwear. Clearly, Giornetti is the man for the job, and it will be exciting to watch him spread his wings in upcoming seasons.