2009 March 3
Fendi - Milan Fall 2009
(MILAN) Generally, the Fendi discussion starts with furs, but this season, the ready-to-wear was more intriguing. Karl Lagerfeld's response to a luxury-averse mood was all about the illusion of deconstruction. From a distance--second row, say, behind Anna Piaggi--the paneled dresses and coats appeared to be forged of utilitarian wool, only slightly more refined than the sort used by Joseph Beuys. Close-up, the heavily treated fabrics were works of art that incorporated tiny bits of fur at every possible turn, even daring to masquerade as the flyaway fringe of a seamless hem on a velvet skirt. Mink anchored the suede boots just as much as the wooden platform. The pouch bag Lagerfeld introduced last season was enough of a hit to revisit it, this time using pony and snakeskin as even luxer fabrications than mere calf.