2009 March 2
Emillio Pucci - Milan Fall 2009
(MILAN) In Peter Dundas' first collection for Pucci, there was very little nodding to the past. With the exception of a few abstract prints, gone were the Slim Aarons days when Pucci meant a bikini and a headscarf, rendered in those trademark psychadelic prints. That's not necessarily a bad thing. Dundas returned to his usual rock n' rolling, sending micromini tube dresses and second-skin snakeskin pants down the runway as several clients outfitted entirely in Matthew Williamson's designs for the house appeared disconcerted. Yes, ladies, the guard has changed. The strongest looks included fur-lined parkas and oversized fox, no surprise given that Dundas also oversees design for French furrier Revillon. His challenge is to cultivate a new Pucci customer, one who looks more to the future than the past--a postmodern Barbarella, if you will. Should Dundas succeed, he will usher this LVMH brand into its latest golden age. And from a front-row perch, Delphine Arnault was watching.