2007 February 23

Versace - Milan Fall 2007

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(NEW YORK) Though the tune's rawness felt slightly out of sync with the collection's more somber sexuality, as Donatella's dudes strode purposefully to The Velvet Underground's "I'm Waiting for the Man," the connection was clear: like Lou Reed's insistent addict, they knew what they wanted and had no problem procuring it. Like The Bonfire of the Vanities on a sci-fi diet, sleek, double-breasted jackets, vests for three-piece suits with buttoned-up, clerical collars, and the occasional girl as arm candy soon gave way to a darkly flashy aesthetic that successfully steered fashion's current preoccupation with futurism |page| away from exhausted mod territory, envisioning it as a sleek, sporty, testosterone-charged affair, like club clothes for extraterrestrials worshipping '80s power-narcissism with only half-winking devotion. (Oh, wait. Isn't that New York?) Collapsing boundaries between boardroom masculinity and dancefloor glitz, this collection might finally signal the long-overdue end of the metrosexual ideal. Dandyism, for the moment, is dead; man-glam is back in business.