2012 September 18
London Spring 2013: Mulberry, Thomas Tait
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Mulberry's creative director Emma Hill has never been one to skimp on inspiration. In fact, she relishes the moment of reveal as much as her buzzy front row at Claridge's. If you received a LFW invite, accompanied by a crafty Winsor and Newton mini watercolor box and brush set, you know what we mean. This season, Hill drew references from the "craft of color and painting" along with vintage military uniforms and seventies silhouettes, awash in muted neutrals with flashes of sapphire, orange, and mint. Accordingly, menswear-inspired outerwear of the soldierly variety came in oversized bikers and peacoats, a blooming copper jacquard on-duty topper, and an army-like summer cape outfitted with butter soft Nappa leather. Meanwhile, floral-splattered, calf-skimming frocks with loose, pleated skirts and wide-leg trousers sitting high on the hip picked up the seventies theme. A new ankle boot donned the springtime treatment with intricate floral detailing and a bespoke jacquard finish. Also new: The oversized "Willow" tote constructed in classic leather with an Ostrich trim on the detachable envelope front clutch. A covetable token for Mulberry's front row gal pals including Alexa Chung, a raven-haired Lana Del Rey (carrying her Del Rey bag, of course), and Kate Moss.
Despite chillier temps in Paris, a crowd of showgoers gathered inside the graffitied skate park in the South Bank for Thomas Tait's rousing teenage mutant ninja turtles meets cosmic disco trip collection. The look centered on Tait's trademark: minimal, tailored silhouettes purged of fancy trappings and balanced with strategically placed sweeping volume. Add a little streetwear and a dose of sixties, space-age drame and you'll have a pretty good concept of the catwalk. Take the starchy white collared button-up tucked into precisely pleated shorts and combined with white, mid-calf moon boots. That was paired under a cobalt coat cocooned for that turtle-in-a-half-shell shape. Tait riffed on this sportif uniform in varying degrees throughout the show as seen in swishy black silk Bermudas teamed with a structured, black leather embossed vest. Or an acid yellow quilted v-neck sweater and breezy silk warm-up pants, cinched at the ankle, and topped off with a sharp, white collarless jacket with rounded shoulders. Additional highlights include a white moto with a black collar and a streamlined white lab coat lined in that same spunky shade of yellow.