2011 September 20
Spring 2012: Burberry Prorsum, Christopher Kane
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(LONDON) Burberry Prorsum
Christopher Bailey got crafty for Spring, and the cheery, resulting confections are worth coveting. Why? Let us count the ways: muted stripes tinged with textured basket-woven paneling, chic rounded raffia caps topped with cheery, unexpected pom poms, and plenty of pleated below-the-knee skirts in berry and forest green hues. Bailey's hand-hewn arty touches are amply fit for the catwalk, thanks to the collars and off-the-shoulder necklines dripping in bright geometric embellishments. Even the peppy platforms got treated with colorful beads, rendering the ankles to look like wrists ringed in a handful of bangles. As always, Bailey made the runway rain with well-executed trenches and petite ponchos as per the brand's mac-filled heritage, flecked with studded cinchers and elaborate, peppy lapel detailing for stylishly combatting Spring's downpours.
Farewell, high-tech swirls of colorful gel swimming in undulating panels of PVC! This time around, Kane crafted a luminous, slightly otherworldly take on the classic school girl’s uniform with softly glowing metallic shifts and skirts, rife with exquisitely cut flaps and layers. A riff on a crisp white pinafore, featuring a wide placket, topped a couple of the peculiarly, innovatively pleated skirts, while heavy white sweater vests edged in navy or mint detailing took a generally unsavory article of attire and made it quite compelling. Florals also took the form of short-shorts strewn in daisies, tops with kaleidoscope-esque splays of teensy flowers, and large, sparsely-placed plumes of roses in B&W. Slip-on flats, curiously resembling spa footwear, allowed the models to glide quite effortlessly down the catwalk, although the precisely-cut origami nips and tucks and sophisticated, subtle prettiness might deserve a bit more heavenly elevation to their strut when worn in reality.