2010 September 22
Runway Reviews: Todd Lynn, Jonathan Saunders
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(LONDON) Todd Lynn
Snakeskin accents have been making appearances everywhere from David Koma to Burberry, and Todd Lynn's Genesis Redux collection for Spring 2011 put the luxe skin to good use as well. Super-skinny pants and slews of sharp, architectural jackets were androgynous, bad girl (and boy) offerings with panels of green-gray python at shoulders, hips, and as a sort of wrap/collar that fastened under the arm so that it could be detached--a nice touch for the slightly more conservative customer. If a dress is what you're after, Lynn offered those as well--although don't expect anything girly from this collection. One-shoulder sheaths came in khaki or the aforementioned green (also edged in the snake). It wasn't remotely drap, as mirrored body armor and a metallic gold funnel-neck leather jacket with an asymmetrical zipper added a certain type of flash--even if the Todd Lynn type is not the flashy type.
In possibly the most commercially appealing collection of London Fashion Week, Jonathan Saunders showed a cheery, swe et lineup that left every attendee in a better mood. Saunders going soft? Don't worry, darlings: the collection may have been inherently wearable, but he hasn't lost his edge: his signature graphic touch kept it from being precious. A teal and white print pinup-style bustier was worn with a kelly green belt and a pale blue pencil skirt with a swipe of an orange stripe near the hem. Box-pleated shirtdresses had cheerleader charm but were grown up enough for the post-co-ed set, and a graphic black and white floral slipdress was layered with the sheerest white topper. Sheer neon yellow and orange dresses were very strong, and belted blazer and shorts combos offered ultimately practical separates. To finish, Saunders showed a series of all-black looks with sheer and sequined sections; an unnecessary but beautiful ending to a fabulous collection.