2010 September 22
Heikki Salonen, Felicity Brown, and Simone Rocha Show at Fashion East
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(NEW YORK) What do Marios Schwab, Gareth Pugh, Jonathan Saunders, and Richard Nicoll have in common? Before making waves on their own at London Fashion Week (and Paris Fashion Week, in Pugh's case), they all participating in Fashion East, an Old Truman Brewery initiative that's been supporting emerging talent in London for the last 10 years. Directed by Lulu Kennedy, Fashion East presented its 10th anniversary show Tuesday at Topshop's show space at the old Eurostar terrminal at Waterloo Station, and designers Heikki Salonen, Felicity Brown, and Simone Rocha were the designers of the season.
The runway show started with Salonen, a Finnish designer who acts as a creative consultant for Diesel in addition to helming his eponymous line. For Spring 2011, his "Jeremy" collection was inspired by '80s and '90s skateboarding and Native American culture, which produced a grunge-y array of frayed ponchos, frayed edges, and knee-length shorts all in neutral-drab shades of grey and khaki. New Saint Martins grad Simone Rocha's all-white collection was surrealist in concept; so-called basics like an oxford blouse or blazer were updated by being blown out of proportion (the opening blazer was boxy and oversized), missing sections (a pair of pants simply had a panel of fabric that hung down from the knee; from the back they appeared as shorts), or somehow skewed with elements added from entirely different articles of clothing.
Felicity Brown, an alum of Alberta Ferretti, Loewe, Mulberry and Lanvin, presented the most romantic collection of the group. Her dresses came with great architectural ruffles, collars, and waves of fabric (her show notes revealed that some of her ruffles are created from 60 layers of silk) in brilliant shades of teal, rich yellow, and orange. Edges were left unfinished for a slightly more natural edge, and the intricate dresses were interspersed with super-simple separates like a raw-edged silk tee and pencil skirt. She's already been stocked at Liberty, 10 Corso Como in Milan, and Barneys in New York, and it seems only a matter of time before her gorgeous dresses hit mainstream red carpets.