2010 September 21

Runway Reviews: Mark Fast, Giles

Mark Fast Spring 2011 Mark Fast Spring 2011
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Once best known for his buzz-sparking choice to include plus-size models in his lineup (particularly notable as body-con would be an understated awy to describe his skintight dresses), Fast produced a Spring collection full of the knits that have become his signature. This time around, Fast dabbled in true knitwear (rather than simply jersey), but his open weaving to reveal slashes of skin remained. Generous fringe and sheer plasticky panels added interest, but Fast is going to have to continue to evolve if he wants to maintain his London buzz.

Maybe it’s because he’s getting serious chez Ungaro—his first collection for the French brand bows in Paris In October—but Giles Deacon’s Spring 2011 collection was not lacking in the quirk factor that has made him so beloved among the London crowds (remember those dinosaur bags?). This season, his main print was a combination of Hawaiian flowers and eyeballs, and it made appearances in everything from a ‘50s-ish housedress to a cleavage-baring corset dress to a tee covered in a fringe-y harness worn by Karolina Kurkova (Coco Rocha, Agyness Deyn, and Veruschka also walked). Fair Isle knits in bright colors also had eyeballs and other cartoony creatures, and another print featured that least glamorous of accessories, the band-aid. Not everything was jokey, though; several ‘70s-style secretary blouses, a simple khaki button-up dress on Behati, and a show-stopping pink fringed gown were grown-up choices among the joyously fun (and funny) collection.