2010 February 23
Runway Reviews: Marios Schwab, Jaeger London
(LONDON) Marios Schwab
He was born in Greece and set up shop in London, but Schwab's Fall 2010 collection referenced his other home base: Austria. The designer, whose father is Austrian and who attended design school in Salzburg, set out reimagining the dirndl. He tread the line carefully between subtle inspiration and literal fabrication, with few missteps. (One tapestry-esque skirt brought to mind the Von Trapp children’s curtain ensembles, and high-waisted pants with suspenders/braces referenced lederhosen a little too literally.) But overall, it was a strong collection. Dirndls worn over crisp white blouses were modern and streamlined, and a plush green velvet coat nodded to the current velvet craze while fitting in well with the rest of the separates. For evening, corset-style dresses that laced up the front were surprisingly chic, as were frocks sprinkled with Swarovski crystals.
A cold, dreary, rainy day—like the day Jaeger London design director Stuart Stockdale presented his Fall 2010 collection—is a occasion for real appreciation of a proper Fall collection. Thankfully, Jaeger offered plenty of options ripe for plucking off the runway. Wear this immediately: an oversized black and white plaid jacket fastened with two biker-esque buckle, which nodded to the brand's heritage (established in 1884!). A quilted shift dress over a cozy black turtleneck, shearling-lined ankle booties, perfectly-cut coats and jackets over webby knits and plenty of fur (a cardigan covered in glossy black fur was a standout) made for a luxe, wearable collection that defied fleeting trends—well, velvet aside. For evening, there were also plenty of dressed-up but louche offerings, like a stunning laser-cut felted wool cape. Retailers, write your orders.