2010 February 13

Runway Reviews: Jason Wu, Rag & Bone

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Jason Wu Jason Wu
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(NEW YORK) Jason Wu
Everything was big for Jason Wu this season. His Fall show featured a record number of models, looks, guests, and yards of hot pink carpeting. But the spectacle wasn’t strictly about the undisputed fashion superstar's grand production values. The concept was all about versatility. “Irving Penn was a central inspiration for this effort because of the beauty of his photographs,” Wu explained. “His blurry, deep colors turned into silver tulle, organza, and feathers. But that was just the evening. I wanted to translate his personal style into menswear inspired daytime looks.” The result was a mishmash of textures, ranging from oversize cashmere coats to dotty chiffon blouses and skirts to plaid parkas. But this season, the dramatic evening looks are responsible for Wu's wow factor, as exaggerated hips and shoulders hinted at how this designer is becoming increasingly daring.

Rag & Bone
The usually unisex Rag & Bone show was dismantled into two distinct events this season, and the duo’s first ladies-only debut did not disappoint. The inspiration was typically imaginative: "courageous and chic Brits reaching new heights while climbing Mount Everest ninety years ago,” they noted. But the knits and tweeds never looked sharper, and the layering of 32 intricate looks offered up a rich selection of timeless jackets, cozy scarves, sweaters, and suddenly desirable legwarmers. Expect the styling techniques to be pulled apart and reconstructed by service mags the world over.